- Makeup + styling by James Kershaw - Photographs by Supa-F Photography - Model Kelsey Neutral Territory Earthy neutrals, whether matte or gleaming with flecks of gold are the perfect choice to compliment the array of ivory, buff and camel hued garments so prevalent this season. Shown here are some of the best cosmetic examples of this warm, wearable palette. Some Like it Haute The hautest cosmetic colours of the season are actually tres cool. Blue tinged greys, plums and aubergines make eyes smolder, mauvy pinks light up the cheeks. Lips are luxurious, laquered in deep cherry, bordeaux and crimson.

- Photographs by Ernest, studio-e.ca - Assisted by Chris Chan - Makeup by James Kershaw - Hair by Kelly Bula - Styled by Sandra Sing Fernandes - Models Michelle, Paula at PHABRIK artist+model management - Location PHABRIK art+design

Lou Salomé is a music artist from France, and as you would expect from the birthplace of haute-couture, she exudes class, sophistication, and charm along with her musical talent. Sitting in her Parisian apartment near Bastille, she is a figure of chicness in her skinny jeans, silk blouse and trendy shoe boots, enhanced by simple silver jewellery and the hint of a dirty laugh; the effortlessly stylish image all Parisians seem to possess. A Diane Kruger lookalike (but with a trendy, curly, bob) and a sultry voice like Shakira, Lou is a sexy siren full of soul, French style. And with performing in clubs all around Paris and the south of France, she is busy too. Having just released her second album in France - My Art Belongs to Dad - Lou is now ready to conquer the world; well, the English-speaking world at least. Inspired and influenced by the likes of Serge Gainsbourg, The Mitsouko, Bashung, Sting, and the great singers of jazz, her bilingual album is an eclectic mix of soul, jazz, pop and funk. The album has all the contours of hope and celebrations of life, along with a mixture of the fragility and forces of nature. It is also a heartfelt dedication to her father who died of cancer. “Singing has always been a spirit inside me; an intense passion. I connect intimately with the music and sing to express myself and my emotions”, says Lou. “Inspiration for this album came to me like an earthquake after my father died, it flowed quickly and naturally.” Lou began singing as a child, letting her voice echo down the stairs of her parents home in the south of France. A hidden ambition for many years, it was only a few years ago she decided to take it more seriously, writing and co-composing her first album in 2008 ‘Tic Tac Mania’. At this time the identity of Lou Salomé was not born yet, but the first steps of her musical journey had begun. “The singing was deep-rooted since my early childhood, so deep that I did nothing to indulge it for all those years. Then one day it became clear, and I understood that I had to engage with my passion and dare to share these things that have always resonated within me.” A relative newcomer in the music industry, Lou started her career at age 34, a bit late perhaps in the age of youth claiming fame younger and younger. What she does bring to the musical table is grace and soul, as well as experience in many different genres of music, allowing her to realise that she does not want to be locked in to just one classifiable genre. With the confidence to pursue her dream and the talent to back it up, her music is beginning to cross oceans and transcend borders with the help of her music collaborator and childhood friend - Carine Bonnefoy - a renowned pianist and jazz composer in France. With their eyes set on Canadian Folk Festivals, concert halls, and clubs, Lou is excited by touring a bilingual country such as Canada. “I want to hear English-speaking people singing my songs in French, and French people singing my songs in English, crossing borders to embrace each other in universality.” Onstage Lou does not disappoint, to the ears, or to the eyes. Extremely watchable, her style is uniquely hers; feminine, bohemian, and sexy combined with nostalgic flair. “I’m influenced by the 20’s”, says Lou. “I love the materials that make you so elegant and feminine, the pearls, the feathers, the (false) fur and the women’s liberalization that occurs during this period. Coco Chanel was a precursor of this trend and I love her work for that.” One of the first women to wear trousers, cut her hair and reject the corset was Coco Chanel. Probably the most influential woman in fashion of the 20th century, Chanel did much to further the emancipation and freedom of women’s fashion. And if you think the name ‘Lou Salome’ sounds familiar, you are right. The singer chose her stage name based on the Russian-born Lou Andreas-Salome, one of the first women psychoanalysts who dared to write about female sexuality. Lou has based her image on the free-spirited nature of this woman, and her vintage Chanel flair echoes this theme onstage, through her image and her music. What does she like to wear when performing? “I love to wear heels, false fur, peacock feathers, and a pearl garland on my head. I love to wear also cuffs on my wrists and lace...I love to mix the styles of the 20’s with a contemporary style. I love sophisticated materials as well as fur or feather that illustrates the animal part we have all in us.” Signature items? “I always wear a pearl headband and peacock feathers, I used them for the album cover. When I was a child, I was fascinated by the beauty of this bird. I found it bizarre, mysterious and marvellous in the same time, different. I love the feather, it looks like an eye, maybe the third eye, who knows?!! It is for me the eye of the child I was, all what made me from my childhood until today, all the life experiences and the memories.” As she prepares for a string of concerts in the south of France, Lou is nervous, as always. When I ask her how she deals with her nerves, she gives me a quote from Oscar Wilde: “Shoot for the moon, if you miss, you’ll land among the stars”. As Lou has proved, it’s never to late to shoot for the moon, and there is no doubt that wherever she goes, she has star quality. Look out for Lou Salome performing across Canada next year. In the meantime check out her album on her website http://www.lousalome.fr/en, Spotify or Amazon.

Urban Gentleman is the theme for fall with sophisticated fabrics and tailored shapes trending runways from Lanvin, Burberry Prorsum to Yves Saint Laurent. Keep in mind it’s all about the fit no matter what trend you’re embracing. Blue Black No, it’s not navy blue. It’s blue-black, and it flooded runways from Paul Smith to Yves Saint Laurent for Fall 2012. The summer’s bright, cobalt blues took a walk to the dark side and are showing up in moody, inky shades. Grab hold of the trend and invest in a blue-black, classic wool coat or well-tailored suit. Layers As the weather gets cooler, pile on the layers. Seems like a no-brainer, right? But the key to this look is showing off those layers through pattern and texture. Burberry Prorsum nailed the trend by layering polka-dot button-ups under monochromatic suits and classic wool coats. All topped off with gloves and tweed news-boy hats. Texture Touch-worthy fabrics from fur, wool to velvet are now fair game for both men and women. DSquared2 presented green, mohair sweaters in its fall/winter 2012 collection while Lanvin revisited old-fashioned, gangster glamour with wool coats flaunting exaggerated collars in sheep’s fleece. Leather Leather lapels, sleeves, cuffs and collars dominated runways as accents to the dark looks of the season. Wear it discreetly in the details, or invest in a leather blazer or the minimalist motorcycle jacket perfected by Philip Lim.

Extravagance and sophistication covered fall/winter runways in tailored silhouettes, lavish details and outrageous patterns. The more drama the better this season, whether it be a head-to-toe white ensemble or geometric prints layered to the max. White Out This surprising trend coined ‘Winter White’ strutted down the runways of fashion’s heaviest hitters including Alexander Wang, Chanel and Proenza Schouler. The all-white ensembles have us yearning to pull of the sophisticated look and adding the neighborhood drycleaner on speed dial. Geometry Lesson The only textbook you need for this tutorial is a glossy copy of PHABRIK. Math inspired prints from triangles, squares to hexagons have the trend-hungry mixing and matching from top to bottom. Most noteworthy was Prada’s flawless execution of the trend with pantsuits and coats covered in geometric, boldly coloured prints. If It Ain't Baroque Designers take us time travelling to the Renaissance with ornate embroidery, gold detailing, lace trims and luxurious fabrics. Large chandelier earrings and gold accessories act as icing on this already indulgent cake. Silhouettes are modernized, but peplums and angled shoulders hint at over-the-top shapes of past eras. Fur Sure Draped over the shoulders of countless models at fashion weeks around the globe, the fur stole claimed its title as the Fall 2012 fashion accessory. But models had no fear of flying red paint, as more designers went the faux route to appease conscious consumers. Play with fur to add texture and dimension to your fall ensembles. The Pant Suit The woman’s pantsuit has returned edgier than ever. One of the most versatile investments in your wardrobe, the pantsuit offers a fierce, powerful appeal. Exchange the pants for jeans for more casual attire that still looks polished.

Photographs © Rainer Torrado, courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier For his Spring/Summer 2013 menswear collection, Gaultier sought inspiration yet again in sailor tailoring and imagery (as often witnessed in previous collections, namely his trademark buttoned panel sailor’s trousers, Breton tops in horizontal blue and white stripes, and cape-back tops) but added an exotic dimension by picturing his garments worn by sailors in the far-flung shores of India. As such, his customary designs were contrasted against a range of bold colours, patterns and designs inspired by Indian landscape, social history and religion (such as shades of red and yellow, layered fabrics and pleated harem pants), and were mixed with elements that evoked travel story-telling, as manifest in clothes richly printed with sailing and fishing motifs or meticulously encrusted with minute beading on dark fabrics as a way to represent starry nights in warm climates. At the same time, the seafaring passage of time and space could be glimpsed in patterns inspired by the rhythmic movements of waves in the ocean such as textured striped seersucker fabrics, pinstripes that discretely vanished and faded into plain colours on wool jackets, trousers or overalls, or stripes that changed directions to create dynamic patterns in cotton tops. In addition, waxed linen was used in some outerwear pieces to evoke water and sea travel, and the rough masculine world of maritime existence as symbolised by sailors’ tattoos could be discerned in delicate and feminine rich embroidery and lace. Despite the very successful incorporation of Indian imagery into his Spring/Summer 2013 menswear collection, it was in the mastering of details that Gaultier struck sartorial gold again. This was evident in astonishing features or broader design choices, such as the careful and playful positioning of buttons, the subtle deconstruction of traditional tailoring by introducing layering and asymmetrical cuts, the adoption of bright summery colour (a rare vision during the latest Paris Men’s Fashion Week), and the stunning pleating (with contrasting colour stitching) that created a kilt-like effect by adding a removable back skirt to shorts or to the wondrous raincoats.

- Photographer: Javier Ortega - Hair: Joseph Dimaggio for L’Oreal Professionnel - Hair assistant: Jessica Swanson - Makeup: Anneliese Tieckn - Model: Aurelia Ford Models NYC - Nails: Julie Kandalec for Zoya - Art director/Stylist: Sandra Sing Fernandes - Location: Paramount Hotel New York

- Photography/Digital Art: studio-e.ca - Art Direction: James Kershaw Homme Scents Each season cosmetic and fragrance houses around the globe launch new scents to tempt the consumer.These scents may be completely new or reinterpretations of existing ones. Spicebomb by Victor & Rolf is a new companion scent to the design duo’s Flowerbomb scent for women the house launched in 2005. Burberry has created a limited edition version of their classic Burberry Brit men’s scent, Brit summer edition will be available until July. The house of Thierry Mugler presents A*MEN Pure Shot, this limited edition scent is comprised of exotic ingredients such as freezing mint, juniper berry and sequoia. Represented by Oscar Pistorius, this record holding 24 year old Paralympics sprinter runs on black carbon fibre prosthetics due to a double leg amputation and has qualified for the 2012 Summer Olympics to be held in London. The fragrance is meant to incarnate the athlete’s powerful strength and desire for victory. Scent of a Woman The fragrance industry is always in a constant state of change. Every season a mind boggling array of completely new or fresh versions of existing scents is introduced into the marketplace. Three of the scents featured are from renowned fashion houses. Elie Saab gained worldwide notoriety when Halle Berry wore the designer to the Academy Awards the year she won the first best actress Oscar awarded to a black actress.The house’s first fragrance was successfully launched in 2011. Burberry, the historic British fashion house recognized for the development of the trench coat and an iconic plaid, is introducing a limited edition of their Burberry Body scent,, an alcohol free body mist. Anna Sui, the New York based designer known for her free spirited collections is adding to her Secret Wish collection of fragrances with Fairy Dance, a fruity, floral, musky scent. Two of the fragrances are from houses known for primarily for footwear, Jimmy Choo and Nine West. Jimmy Choo expands their collection by introducing a lighter Eau de Toilette version of their first scent launched last year. Love Fury marks Nine West’s initial foray into the world of fragrance, the woody, floral, oriental scent is housed in a bottle cleverly topped with a stiletto shaped stopper. Swarovski synonymous with everything crystal, launches the limited edition Aura by Swarovski Collection Mariage, a light Eau de Toilette (shown),along with a crystal studded collectors edition bottle, a perfumed hair mist and a crystal embellished lip gloss compact.

- Photography/Digital Art: studio-e.ca - Art Direction: James Kershaw There is a constant struggle to maintain an adequate hydration level in the skin. The effects of extreme weather conditions,(all too familiar to Canadians), central heating and air conditioning all contribute to skin’s water loss. These not only contribute to the feeling of discomfort, but also the visible signs of too little water in the skin’s surface layers, such as fIne lines, a dull appearance, and flakiness. The beauty industry has responded with a vast array of potions, lotions and elixirs to help alleviate the problem. Clarins, long known for their expertise in all things relating to beauty are relaunching their Face Treatment Oils. Introduced in the mid 1960’s and unchanged in formula since then, they are composed of aromatic essential oils and plant extracts to aid in rebalancing the skin. The newly repackaged oils (the 30ml. bottle now comes with a dropper to precisely measure the amount needed ) will be at Clarins counters nationwide in April. Clinique, another renowned skin care company recently introduced Moisture Surge Intense Skin Fortifying Hydrator for very dry and delicate skin. The product helps to correct and maintain the moisture barrier allowing the skin to retain an elevated level of hydration. Comfort zone, a well known spa line of skin treatments offers hydramemory fluid 24h, which helps to maintain an ample moisture level in the epidermis for up to 24 hours. A lack of water in the skin is a problem that can occur at any age. A loss of firmness is characterized by skin slackening, a loss of elasticity, and the appearance of wrinkles and usually affects women in their forties. Clarins introduces new Extra Firming Day and Night Creams in two formulas, one for dry skins, one for all skin types and is available nationwide now. Clinique’s newest age fighter was also developed to fight the loss of firmness, their Repairwear Uplifting firming cream is used morning and evening after your appropriate 3-step skin care regimen and is also available in two formulas.

Designing Outside of the Box Sitting at a small, circular table adorned with a telephone and a lone sketchbook, Stanley Carroll appears poised yet inherently at ease. The designer — who first launched his eponymous label three decades ago — has the air of an accomplished creative-type, speaking confidently yet modestly about his long list of accomplishments. The most notable of which, however, is his resolve to honour artistic integrity above all else. “In being the kind of designer that I try to be, the focus is primarily creative,” Carroll says from his Edmonton studio. “You’re working in a professional environment so you have to address the realities of a commercial industry, but at the crux you’re trying to make a creative statement that’s true to you. If I don’t think a dress is exemplary of my style, I won’t use it no matter how good it is.” This dedication and self-assuredness has come to define the designer, whose aesthetic is a rare breed of minimalism peppered with European sophistication. The latter comes from a childhood spent in Holland, before Carroll relocated to Canada with his family at age 16. “The minimalistic aspect of my clothing is what makes it believable, while the European twist is what keeps it interesting,” he says. “My brain will always lean towards a European mindset of dressing for a number of reasons. Stylistically, I think Europeans tend to be a bit more comfortable in their skin and are more inclined to experiment, which really inspires me.” Apart from European street style and café culture, Carroll’s influences vary seasonally and encompass everything from travel and literature, to pop culture and even his own life. This season, Carroll sums up his sartorial offerings in three words: Happy, whacky and eclectic. The latter stems from the diverse fabrics Carroll sourced from around the world, lending equal parts whimsy (think dresses covered with airy clouds) and ethnic appeal (sari materials and tribal-inspired prints) to the collection. “The fabric story is bigger for me this season that usual, so there’s more print and a lot more colour than I normally use,” he says. “I still experiment with shape and volume, but this use of fabric has provided a new aesthetic for me.” The designer could have based his company out of a more fashion-forward city, yet true to maverick form, he chose instead to call Edmonton home. This calculated move speaks not only to Carroll’s individuality, but to his rejection of prescribed industry standards as well. “I’ve always found it very limiting, and after a while you start to question why things are done a certain way,” he says. “So there are a number of things that I looked at that the industry does for understandable reasons, but I decided it’s just not for me.” Like limiting himself to creating on a seasonal basis, or even selling his collections through retailers. Instead, the veteran designer creates on an ongoing basis, opting to sell his work online and through pop-up shops, a method he finds particularly successful. “The one great advantage to living and working in a place like Edmonton is that there are no rules; if I were in Toronto I would have been stylistically pigeonholed a lot sooner, where looks and markets are determined for you. You might do well commercially, but creatively you work in a box.” And if there’s one thing that Stanley Carroll is not, it’s creatively stifled. “What you encounter each and every day will to some extent impact you, and people who work in creative environments tend to develop their voice this way,” he says. “Simply put, inspiration comes by waking up every morning and looking around.” Style blogger Andrew Eirich credits Carroll as a major influence, and has admired his work since he first saw the designer present his Spring/Summer collection at Western Canada Fashion Week last year. “Stanley has a chicness and simplicity to his designs that make them incredible and timeless. The ease and elegance of his clothing stems from his natural ability to understand and create great fashion,” Eirich says.     Models: Andrew & Elizabeth Makeup: Amber Prepchuk Photographer: Richard Siemens