PHABRIK Magazine

Yearly Archives: 2012

Homme Based

- Model: Kent - Styling: James Kershaw - Photography/Digital art: Studio-e.ca Men’s skincare has come a long way in the past decade and so have the attitudes men have concerning the care of their skin. The stigma surrounding men that once used skin preparations as overtly narcissistic, vain beings with unadulterated egos has been replaced with one of a informed man concerned with health, vitality and well-being. Looking and feeling good in your skin is no longer just the privilege of women. Major cosmetic houses on both sides of the globe have extensive lines based on the special needs of a man’s skin. A male’s skin is often thicker, oilier and can have a coarser appearance than his female counterparts. All issues are now addressed, protection from the elements, hydration, post shaving calming and soothing of the skin. Zone specific areas such as the eyes have there own unique set of problems and solutions. Clinique Skin Supplies For Men’s new Anti-fatigue Cooling Eye Gel roll on revitalizes,and brightens while combating puffiness and dark circles. ClarinsMen Age Control Line Control Eye Balm revitalizes, lifts and firms, and reduces puffiness ideal for the more mature male. Exfoliation is key to a clear glowing complexion, Clinique Skin Supplies For Men’s Face Scrub prepares the skin for shaving, it removes dead skin and oil buildup, lifts the beard to reduce ingrown hair development. ClarinsMen new Exfoliating Cleanser (June availability) deep cleanses, purifies and refines the skin with natural lava powder, natural micro beads and micro spheres of salicylic acid while eliminating toxins that can dull the complexion. Comfort Zone MANSPAce Hydra Performer After-Shave Restoring Hydrator replenishes lost moisture due to shaving restoring the skin’s natural defenses.


Fur, What’s All the Fuzz?

By Mark St. James - Marquis of Fashion

Fur: the facts, the controversy, the fashion! The use of fur in fashion has become such a point of contention that it leaves most designers coughing up fur balls. But when was the last time we took a step back from the anti-fur mob mentality, and took a look at the facts surrounding the topic? In my previous article in Phabrik Magazine I focused on the growing movement in Eco-fashion and sustainability within the fashion industry. It may shock you to learn just how Eco-friendly the use of fur can be. Having always been one to make up my own mind, I embarked on a mission to determine fact from fiction and propaganda from reality in order to shed some much needed light on this highly debated topic. After a tremendous amount of research, I have to say, I am pro-fur... no sense beating around the bush. Now, before you condemn me, hear me out. For Your Consideration: Have you ever stopped to consider the impact petroleum products have on the eco system? It’s interesting, if not confounding that so many people are eager to jump on the fur trashing waggon, yelling on their megaphones, and holding up signs made of wood, plastic, and paper when in reality, forests where cut down for those signs and entire ecosystems where moved or destroyed for the oil necessary for the plastics and other synthetic materials that produced the marker that wrote the message. How many animals were harmed so protesters can protest?Why not use synthetic fur in place of theanimals?As stated above the use of synthetics requires greater devastation then using the real thing. Fur only requires the use of an animals hide, the only environmentally harmful process in refining the fur for use in fashion is the dying process which is optional, and may be substituted with organic dyes. Now before we move on, I want address the fundamental issue surrounding fur and the reason it is such a heated issue, the ethical treatment of animals. Obviously this a broad topic, so for the sake of this article, let’s keep it in the fur trade. There exists two important points here: 1) The quality of life of the animals living in a fur farm are regulated by laws set by governing bodies. These regulations ensure that the animals enjoy a life that is nearly as comfortable as that of a house pet. These laws are very specific and well enforced. 2) The misdirected protesting and lobbying against government regulated farms. This protesting has led to a number of fur farms closing up shop... a victory for the persecutors? Maybe in their minds; but sadly all that is being accomplished is a shift from controlled environments to the black market. This is where one has to take a stand, poaching and the black market sale of fur is abhorrent. The fact is, the demand for fur is and will always be present, in fact, it has been there all through history. With regulated farms, the treatments of the animals is assured, and without those farms, the black market flourishes. Rather counter-productive to put so much time and energy into closing fur farms especially when considering the consequences. It’s not unlike throwing red paint on a fur coat during fashion week... fur is typically insured... the coat will be replaced; Counter-productive. The More You Know: Fur farms account for 63% of all fur usage in Canada, this number is approximately 1.6 million pelts per year. Of this number these animals are cared for by the best veterinarians, they are fed a balanced diet every day, and they are cared for and monitored with the use of the regulated and legally required healthcare and breeding records. Unfortunately the 65,000 people working in the fur trade in Canada alone are under constant attack from Eco-fundamentalists who make it their mission to pass on misinformation which results in the loss of jobs and potentially the traditional art of fur crafting. At this point it seems moot to discuss the use of leather in fashion and how in the midst of all the hype, few forums touch upon the fact that the majority of anti-fur advocates wear leather products and eat meat. Fur Today: So with all this fur who is wearing it? I know as a fashion columnist and blogger I love to wear a fur stole or fur trim on my collars, cuffs, and hoods but who else is wearing fur? Many high profile celebrities wear fur such as Madonna, Sienna Miller, Jennifer Lopez, Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, and the list goes on and on but are celebs the only ones wearing fur? Since fur is found on nearly every type of outerwear on the trim of a hood etc. the masses are investing in fur from popular accessible brands like Andrew Marc, Danier Leather, and Canada Goose, making fur very practical. Although full fur coats are not as popular on the streets today, they are hitting the runways hard for Fall 2012. Nearly every collection used fur in some way and the shift in perspective is looking great. Noted fur advocate Karl Lagerfeld used fur in nearly every look at the Fendi Fall 2012 show. Other collection that invested in the trendy renewable resource were Marc Jacobs, Celine, Hermès, Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci, Zac Posen, and newcomer Altuzarra. With this much of the fluffy fuzz on the catwalk I can guarantee that it will be showing up more frequently on the streets; and if you can’t afford your own fur, simply dive into your grandmothers or grandfathers wardrobe and take out one of their old furs, or visit your local vintage shop. Remember, fur unlike other materials, is wonderfully resilient and can stand the test of time. You’ll often see fur being past down from generation to generation for over half a century or more. Once it has run its course, it is nice to know that it will degrade naturally and will not add to the tonnes and tonnes of cheap disposable synthetic fabrics that make up a significant percentage of our landfills. Finally, I have to pose the question, “What is more Eco-Friendly?” Fur? Or piles of non-biodegradable synthetic materials? Has the use of fur become so plagued with unnecessary guilt and misinformation that we would turn our backs on a proven, quality and sustainable material? In the Interest of Sharing, Fun Facts: - $800 million - The amount of money that goes directly into the Canadian economy from the fur trade each year. - http://www.furcouncil.com - 65,000 - The amount of people working in the fur trade in Canada. - http://www.fur.ca - 63% - The amount of Canadian furs that come from fur farms. - http://www.fur.ca - 1.6 million - The number of pelts produced from fur farms in Canada. - http://www.fur.ca - 1 billion - The number of cows that a killed each year for their leather. - http://www.peta.org/ - Hydrogen Chloride - The toxic gas released when creating synthetic textiles. - http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov - 9% - The percentage of man made textiles in landfills. - 2020 - The year the world’s supply of oil and gas will fall below the level required to meet international demand. http://www.theinsider.org Warm, fashionable, renewable, environmentally friendly, regulated...FUR.


Jameson House in Vancouver by Foster + Partners

By João Paulo Nunes

Architecture firm Foster + Partners have unveiled images of Jameson House, a new 35-storey mixed-use tower in the heart of Vancouver and the practice’s first in Canada. Completed at the end of last year and almost fully occupied at present, the project combines the restoration of heritage buildings with new construction. The scheme integrates two 1920s Beaux Arts structures: the entire internal double-height volume of the A-listed Ceperley Rounsfell Building (which has been returned to its original configuration) and the B-listed Royal Financial Building (whose façade has been retained). The development comprises 11 storeys of offices and shops, topped by 23 storeys of apartments.The tower’s form articulates these different functions: the first two storeys continue the row of shop units at street level, while the uppermost office floor aligns with the cornice line of the adjacent building. Contrasting with the flush façade of the offices, the residential floors curve outwards in four wide bays, which are staggered to allow daylight to reach neighbouring buildings and oriented to provide uninterrupted views of the landscape. The tower’s flexible plan supports a variety of apartment types, with interiors by Foster + Partners and living spaces in the deep curve of the window bays. At the top of the tower are two-storey penthouse apartments and landscaped roof terraces.


Orange Crush | Haute Chocolate | The Ultra-Violets

- Makeup + styling by James Kershaw - Photographs + Digital Art by studio-e.ca Orange Crush Cosmetic houses are enamored with the colour orange this season. As a result, a wide array of beauty products are available in varying intensities of this sun-kissed hue. Bold, intense, colour saturated items scream CHIC!, while sheer lightly pigmented products whisper the message. This spring every feature from eyes, cheeks, lips, even nails can be dressed in this citrusy colour. Could it be love? Maybe. Or just a crush. Haute Chocolate Cosmetic houses always have an ample supply of rich chocolaty hues available. This spring they are an ideal contrast to the season’s acid bright and pretty pastel garments and the perfect compliment to the ubiquitous ivory, beige and camel items in store each spring. Bobbi Brown’s Rich Brown matte and Chocolate Shimmer Wash eye shadows accessorized with Clinique’s Intense Chocolate Quickliner for Eyes creates a warm smoky eye. Jane Iredale’s Chemistry In Touch Blush imparts a dewy pink chocolate gleam to the cheeks with a formula enriched with cocoa extract that emits an intoxicating chocolate scent. Layer Clarins’ Chocolate lip liner pencil with their new Gloss Prodige in Chocolate for a sexy deep nude mouth. A dark lacquered manicure is de rigueur, OPI’s "Suzy Says Da!" would be ideal or "Chocolate Moose" for those seeking something more subtle. The Ultra-Violets Whether you seek a 1950’s inspired ultra-feminine, classic look or an avant-garde, futuristic one, this bluish purple is one of the season’s coolest colours for fashion and beauty. Violet can be found in every category of cosmetic in a wide variety of finishes and intensities. Eyes are accentuated with shimmer and matte shadows (Clarins), and elongated with pencil, cream or liquid liners (Clinique). Cheeks radiate an ethereal lavender glow (Yves Saint Laurent). Whether you crave lips of lavender or a pout of purple, there is a wide range of items available to achieve the desired effect such as lip plumpers (Jane Iredale), glosses (Clarins), lipstick/gloss/balm hybrids (Bodyography, Clinique). Nail this season’s chicest look with amethyst hued polishes (SpaRitual, OPI)


Men’s Trends: Summer 2012

By André Deveaux

The catwalks were awash with color and prints, with the atmosphere one of true summer fun in the sun. Innovative materials and the reinterpretation of traditional ones, such as the net processing on leather, was an overreacting trend. What was most significant however were the more architectural innovations and the reworking of traditional tailoring and proportions, which together bring to light a new fashion for spring/summer 2012. Nomadic Chic We are absolutely in love with this trend! We call this trend “Nomadic Chic” because it takes inspiration from a global collective from Japanese tailoring to American heritage. This trend definitely looks to push an individuals style by opening their eyes to cultures, places and people beyond their immediate proximity. We live in a multicultural environment which is precisely why we picked this as one of our 4 major trending categories. There are no real rules on how to achieve this look aside from taking a deeper look into your culture for inspiration and that of your friends. Fight for Bright Moving forward from the very masculine blue, other brights lit up the catwalks in Milan/Paris. Parrot greens, oranges and highlighter yellow contrasted with warm hues of berry. The trend is easy to wear: interpret it with knitwear or even leather, while for the more daring a few tailored suits in bright fluo pink color made an appearance on the spring/summer 2012 catwalks. All Meshed Up See through mesh knitwear seems to be man’s alternative to lace for women in spring/summer ’12. Sexy yet sophisticated, these knits are the perfect way to show some flesh and keep cool in the summer heat. Why not embrace the trend further and move onto netwear? In Dolce & Gabbana’s spring/summer ’12 collection the net is presented in different sizes, colors and materials and used either transparent or lined for jackets, trousers, shorts, T-shirts, bomber jackets, tracksuits and sweaters. Printed Elegance Prints, prints and more prints! If there is one trend you pick to follow this season then this is “it”. Almost every brand this S/S is indulging in some variation of this trend. Whether you’re mixing plaids with stripes, prints with plaids, solids with prints, or prints on prints, there are no limits to what you can do. How do you nail this look? Well, though this trend appears to have no rules we do suggest maintaining a base color scheme when creating your ensemble. This will enable you to piece together the right items for the perfect look.


Naughty Paris: A Lady’s Guide to the Sexy City

By Tracey Ellis

A New Generation of Women’s Travel Guides You will not find a ‘must-see or do’ list of the top tourist attractions in Heather-Stimmler Hall’s naughty travel guides, but you may find an exclusive boutique hotel or a swanky bar etched with some glamorous history in which to have a cool cocktail in. The American-born author helps women travel independently to the sexiest cities on the planet - Paris and New York - with style, grace, and sex appeal. Heather shows you the slicker side of city life; daring lingerie shops, luxurious hotels, sensuous spas, and romantic restaurants are just a small part of the seductive path she leads you on. Although described as ‘naughty’ travel guides, these books are more about discovering your sensuous and adventurous side rather than misbehaving. But when in Paris it is not just all about tempting lingerie and cabarets. There is advice for what to wear from ‘Petite Brigitte’ (an insider Parisienne view), who describes the fashion as an ‘mélange of artless elegance’ which should encompass silk scarves, tailored white shirts, and flattering white jeans in a dark rinse. There are also recommendations for erotic photographers, body art salons, clubs where you can be a dancing diva, and sexy shoe shopping. More than just your regular tourist guide, these suggestive handbooks provide insight to your inner ‘femme fatale’; perhaps provoking you to explore other areas of the city you may not have previously considered or even knew about. The most famous vintage dealer in Paris, Didier Ludot’s shop overlooking the gardens of Palais Royal, will let you discover 1960’s Givenchy dresses and Hermes bags in pristine condition, and when you’re hungry the decadent Laduree ‘salon de the’ serves up the most exquisite pastries in a sumptuous atmosphere. Or get a custom corset made at Cadolle on rue St-Honore. Herminie Cadolle was the inventor of the bra who freed women from the constraints of the corset, then reintroduced it to the fashion world after World War 1. These are just a few of the hidden gems to be discovered in Naughty Paris. More and more women are traveling alone for business and for pleasure, and they have individual, feminine requirements. According to Wanderlust, even married women are traveling more often alone or with girlfriends. Of course the main concern is safety, but there are still many fun adventures to be had. This is where Heather’s recommendations reflect the strong, independent women of today, as it is foremost a lady’s guide, for girls who are ‘no longer girls but who still want to have fun’. On their own terms, of course. Written with a sophisticated flair, there is nothing seedy or vulgar about the recommendations in this guide. The author has done her research and is refreshingly informative with punchy and clear descriptions of what to expect if you do decide to cross that adventurous line; her writing is as seductive as the content. For the woman who is curious but a bit shy, this book will potentially open up new exciting doors of adventure, or provide them with a perfectly indulgent itinerary to follow. Heather provides the best solo-female-friendly places to go where you can feel wildly independent without being harassed. She also suggests the necessary ‘girly weekend’ places to rendezvous with your gal pals, or the best places for intimate dining a deux with your partner. Beautifully designed and photographed, it was named the Best Travel Guidebook of the year in the 2009 Independent Publisher Book Awards, but be aware; there is a racy side to this book if you so choose to read, and it is fascinating. You can take what you want from this guide and leave the rest. Perhaps just reading about it is enough…but as the saying goes; “what happens in Paris, stays in Paris”. Heather Stimmler-Hall is a travel journalist and creator of the blog Secrets of Paris (www.secretsofparis.com). She has also recently released Naughty New York with the help of eight local experts and journalists. All of the major online booksellers carry the Naughty Paris Guide, including Amazon, Barnes & Nobel, Borders, and Powell’s, as well as the Kindle edition on Amazon.


All Bases Covered

- Art direction by James Kershaw - Photographs + Digital Art by studio-e.ca Choosing the correct foundation is crucial for a successful makeup application. An incorrect choice can throw off the entire look. Skin type, colour, tone, the amount of coverage desired and the appropriate fInish all need to be addressed. Cosmetic houses have responded by offering a variety of foundation types, in an wide range of colours. Clinique’s new Stay Matte Oil Free Makeup will be available in 20 shades when it arrives in stores in May, their Even Better Concealer, launching in April, will come in twelve shades. Jane Iredale offers two dozen skin perfecting colour options for their mineral powder Pure Pressed Base. Clarins’ Ever Matte Oil Free Makeup SPF15 was recently introduced into the marketplace with a companion Ever Matte Shine Control Mineral Powder Compact, ideal for those wanting a long wearing shine free finish. The house’s aptly named Instant Light Brush On Perfector imparts a moist, light reflective finish around the dry, delicate and often dark under eye area. It’s never been easier to ensure that all your beauty bases are covered.


Women’s Trends: Summer 2012

By André Deveaux

Fashion is about evolution redesigning and rediscovering, creating new and revisiting the old. The revival of the 20’s with the Drop waist lines at Etro and Alberta Ferretti and the peblums at Yves saint Laurent shows the remix of the past, present and future of fashion. From Global traveler to Pastel princesses shows the eclectic styles of today and our direction of the fashion for tomorrow Bold Bouquets Florals are back again for spring/summer with more color combinations than ever. Mixing prints like at Dries Van Noten and Antonio Marras, and clashing color at Mary Katrantzou are the way to get your flower fIx this season. Pep Squad In a celebration of the female silhouette more collections than not had peplums involved. Whether soft like Céline, Acne and Yves Saint Laurent, or bold statements like Cushnie et Ochs and Jason Wu, the hips are where it’s at this season. Shine On Shiny fabrics and jewel colors are the loud and proud choice for those looking to make statement this summer. Be it green cellophane trousers like Theysken’s Theory or shimmying satin at Giorgio Armani, you really can’t shine too much. Gatsby Glamour With Baz Luhrmann’s Great Gatsby hitting cinema screens this year, the roaring Twenties is back in vogue. Gucci lead the charge with its deco flapper dresses with Ralph Lauren and Etro close behind. Global Traveller Bottega Veneta was hailed as one of the best collections of the season by editors, but there were plenty of others getting in on the tribal action too Donna Karan, Burberry Prorsum and Etro to name but a few.


Adidas SLVR Spring / Summer 2012 Collection

By João Paulo Nunes

As it celebrates its third anniversary, label adidas SLVR continues to successfully reinvent casual and sports fashion in the form of a sleek and elegant collection of men’s and womenswear for Spring/Summer 2012. Under the creative direction of Dirk Schoenberger, the label’s current collection includes a series of minimalist garments where divergent shapes and themes abound to create flattering silhouettes. This is achieved in the contrast between clothes such as wide-legged pleated trousers and tight shirts and jumpers, or by resorting to asymmetrical hem lines contrasting with precise vertical and horizontal stitching. In addition, traditional tailoring is deconstructed by removing sleeves from suit jacket, by exploring the design possibilities of the staple white shirt, or by introducing fastening strips or zips in unexpected parts of a garment.


Pheonix Rising

Photography: Harry Fellows www.harryfellows.com Styling: Cannon at Judy Casey www.judycasey.com Model: Paris at Muse Management Makeup: Chico Mitsui for NARS cosmetic Hair: Kozmo at Bryan Bantry Manicurist: Krysty Williams for Picture Perfect Nails First Assistant: Ijfke Ridgley Styling Assistant: Amber Stolec & Jorge Rublacava Location: Loft 402 www.loft402.com


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