PHABRIK Magazine

Trends

Women’s Trends: Fall 2013

By Janis Galloway

From ultra feminine pink, to the plaids of 90’s grunge, this season leaves plenty of options for wardrobe play. Grunge Goddess Leather, plaid, studs and ripped jeans galore. This trend actually encourages you to return to your angsty teen wardrobe and rep rebellion. Saint Laurent demonstrated the grunge trend in its most ready-to-wear version with leather pants, schoolgirl plaid dresses, and multi-zipper embellished miniskirts. All styled with fishnet stockings and buckled, black biker boots. The key to executing this trend on the sidewalks? Leather, plaid and looking like you didn’t try at all. The It-Pant Comfort has been crowned queen of fall fashion, appearing in relaxed silhouettes from top to bottom. The loose-fitted trouser is an autumn must-have and looks absolutely chic paired with heels and a more tailored top. On our most wanted list are the perfect slouchy pants from sister superstars Mary Kate and Ashley’s, The Row. The fall collection showed the trend in its most wearable form – simple, black, classic. Coat Room The world’s runways made it very clear - bigger is better when it comes to fall coats. Cocoon shapes and dropped-shoulders draped models in shows from Carven to Marc Jacobs, Chloe to Acne. Wool, mohair and leather were the star fabrics for this effortless, but exaggerated silhouette, but pattern and colour had no limits. Go for a sleek and traditional grey topcoat as seen by Emporio Armani, or flaunt the trend in all its glory with an elegant pattern such as Rochas floral silk opera coat. Think Pink To the surprise of us all, this feminine hue might be the colour of fall/winter 2013. Pink starred in many designer collections and is the focus of some of the season’s most illustrious fashion editorials, including the September issue of British Vogue starring it-model Cara Delevingne. The cotton candy shade stood out in a season of more androgynous trends imagined mostly in outerwear. Prada executed the colour on sophisticated plaid trenches, while Miu Miu paired it with playful polka dots in floor length jackets. Carven prescribed the trend in a double-dose: a show stopping, oversized, boiled wool coat in bubblegum pink. Let the lusting begin.


Footwear Trends: Fall 2013

Women's Footwear Trends The trend for fall/winter 2013 women’s footwear is all about nostalgia and time capsules. The 90’s continue to inspire this season’s hottest looks. Grunge returns, this time mixed with a twist of 70’s punk. The boot continues as a staple of the season, from ankle to over the knee. Chunky heels, heavy metal hardware, exotic animal prints and fur embel lishments giving them varying looks. A resurgence of 40’s style mary janes and T- strap pumps decorated embossed with fur porn poms. Modern touches, such as exposed zips, pointed toes, chunky heels, straps and buckles. Colours ran the gamut from classic black and brown, the surprise of white to a range of this season ‘s hottest hues such as teal, forest green, and oxblood. Men's Footwear Trends Mens footwear continued its evolution Classic shapes such as the lace up dress shoes the casual high top sneak and the workboot are updated with novel fabrics and colours. Metal hardware and patent finish embossed leathers added interest. Even the classic evening slipper was brought forward with animal print finishes and vivid hue, usually paired up with evening attire or a favorite smoking jacket, the modern fashion avatar will mate them his fave denim. Metal hardware and patent finish embossed leathers added interest.


Men’s Trends: Spring 2013

By Janis Galloway

This season, designers offered men more exotic ensembles than seen in recent years. Unconventional looks composed entire collections, including head-to-toe florals, white-on-white layering and pops of pastel. Navigate through the whimsy with our top trend picks for the season. White Noise White, white and more white. Layering of this non-colour was a key trend from designers Philip Lim, Gucci, and Givenchy. Popular for women over winter, the clean, sophisticated look is now masculinized. Invest in a great pair of white chinos, or a well-tailored trench to pull of the look with effortless poise. Secret Garden Florals made dashing appearances in many menswear collection and we’re yearning to see this trend walk from the runways onto sidewalks. Find inspiration from Raf Simons’ lengthy floral jackets, showing the print in its most wearable light. Even safer, incorporate the print into your look with accessories such as ties or pocket scarves. Color Theory Spring 2013 runways served bold brights and even pastels for colour thirsty men from the likes of Lanvin, Louis Vuitton and Givenchy. If a head-to-toe pastel pink suit is too intimidating, try easing into the palette by layering the daring hues under your current wardrobe neutrals. But bottom line: go bold or go home. Bombs Away Athletic-inspired apparel rounded the bases this season, including one distinct item – the bomber jacket. Sported in every print, colour and fabric the options are limitless. Party hoppers and fashion insiders might opt for a bomber in red satin and floral print as seen from Dolce & Gabbana , while those looking to flaunt their boyish charm might lean towards a wool or cotton jacket in traditional hues such as navy blue, greys or army green.


Women’s Trends: Spring 2013

By Janis Galloway

Spring/Summer 2013 is a season to be excited about. Stripes, brights and other fashion delights debuted, offering up some fun and fresh trends worth investing in. Smarten up that wardrobe and step into spring with these easy-to-wear trends freshly picked from the world’s runways. Peek-a-Boo Peek-a-boo cutouts offer a more playful, conservative approach to showing a little flesh. Simple and intricately cut details are trending on tops and dresses, found on necklines, right below bust lines and waistlines. The slits let all body types play with sexing up even the most conservatively designed garment. Walk the Line Marc Jacobs set the standard for this spring trend, pairing up stripes top to bottom for a high contrast look. Go bold and mix and match with varying patterns for a fashion forward feel, or keep it simple matching stripes with solid basics. Bright On Spring hatched some shockingly bright colours, bordering on neon at times. Jenni Kayne decked out models in electrifying pink pantsuits while Diane von Furstenberg paired fluorescent green with aqua for a juicy colour combination. Be brave and play matchy-matchy, layering one bright on top of another for a chic monochromatic ensemble. Short and Sweet Short suits are the essential trend for women this season. Take this put-together look from nine-to-five straight into cocktail hour following the lead of designers such as Jil Sander, Carven, Jenni Kayne and Marissa Web who perfected the look with well-tailored blazers and shorts in high-end fabrics and feminine details.  


Men’s Trends: Fall 2012

By Janis Galloway

Urban Gentleman is the theme for fall with sophisticated fabrics and tailored shapes trending runways from Lanvin, Burberry Prorsum to Yves Saint Laurent. Keep in mind it’s all about the fit no matter what trend you’re embracing. Blue Black No, it’s not navy blue. It’s blue-black, and it flooded runways from Paul Smith to Yves Saint Laurent for Fall 2012. The summer’s bright, cobalt blues took a walk to the dark side and are showing up in moody, inky shades. Grab hold of the trend and invest in a blue-black, classic wool coat or well-tailored suit. Layers As the weather gets cooler, pile on the layers. Seems like a no-brainer, right? But the key to this look is showing off those layers through pattern and texture. Burberry Prorsum nailed the trend by layering polka-dot button-ups under monochromatic suits and classic wool coats. All topped off with gloves and tweed news-boy hats. Texture Touch-worthy fabrics from fur, wool to velvet are now fair game for both men and women. DSquared2 presented green, mohair sweaters in its fall/winter 2012 collection while Lanvin revisited old-fashioned, gangster glamour with wool coats flaunting exaggerated collars in sheep’s fleece. Leather Leather lapels, sleeves, cuffs and collars dominated runways as accents to the dark looks of the season. Wear it discreetly in the details, or invest in a leather blazer or the minimalist motorcycle jacket perfected by Philip Lim.


Women’s Trends: Fall 2012

By Janis Galloway

Extravagance and sophistication covered fall/winter runways in tailored silhouettes, lavish details and outrageous patterns. The more drama the better this season, whether it be a head-to-toe white ensemble or geometric prints layered to the max. White Out This surprising trend coined ‘Winter White’ strutted down the runways of fashion’s heaviest hitters including Alexander Wang, Chanel and Proenza Schouler. The all-white ensembles have us yearning to pull of the sophisticated look and adding the neighborhood drycleaner on speed dial. Geometry Lesson The only textbook you need for this tutorial is a glossy copy of PHABRIK. Math inspired prints from triangles, squares to hexagons have the trend-hungry mixing and matching from top to bottom. Most noteworthy was Prada’s flawless execution of the trend with pantsuits and coats covered in geometric, boldly coloured prints. If It Ain't Baroque Designers take us time travelling to the Renaissance with ornate embroidery, gold detailing, lace trims and luxurious fabrics. Large chandelier earrings and gold accessories act as icing on this already indulgent cake. Silhouettes are modernized, but peplums and angled shoulders hint at over-the-top shapes of past eras. Fur Sure Draped over the shoulders of countless models at fashion weeks around the globe, the fur stole claimed its title as the Fall 2012 fashion accessory. But models had no fear of flying red paint, as more designers went the faux route to appease conscious consumers. Play with fur to add texture and dimension to your fall ensembles. The Pant Suit The woman’s pantsuit has returned edgier than ever. One of the most versatile investments in your wardrobe, the pantsuit offers a fierce, powerful appeal. Exchange the pants for jeans for more casual attire that still looks polished.


Men’s Trends: Summer 2012

By André Deveaux

The catwalks were awash with color and prints, with the atmosphere one of true summer fun in the sun. Innovative materials and the reinterpretation of traditional ones, such as the net processing on leather, was an overreacting trend. What was most significant however were the more architectural innovations and the reworking of traditional tailoring and proportions, which together bring to light a new fashion for spring/summer 2012. Nomadic Chic We are absolutely in love with this trend! We call this trend “Nomadic Chic” because it takes inspiration from a global collective from Japanese tailoring to American heritage. This trend definitely looks to push an individuals style by opening their eyes to cultures, places and people beyond their immediate proximity. We live in a multicultural environment which is precisely why we picked this as one of our 4 major trending categories. There are no real rules on how to achieve this look aside from taking a deeper look into your culture for inspiration and that of your friends. Fight for Bright Moving forward from the very masculine blue, other brights lit up the catwalks in Milan/Paris. Parrot greens, oranges and highlighter yellow contrasted with warm hues of berry. The trend is easy to wear: interpret it with knitwear or even leather, while for the more daring a few tailored suits in bright fluo pink color made an appearance on the spring/summer 2012 catwalks. All Meshed Up See through mesh knitwear seems to be man’s alternative to lace for women in spring/summer ’12. Sexy yet sophisticated, these knits are the perfect way to show some flesh and keep cool in the summer heat. Why not embrace the trend further and move onto netwear? In Dolce & Gabbana’s spring/summer ’12 collection the net is presented in different sizes, colors and materials and used either transparent or lined for jackets, trousers, shorts, T-shirts, bomber jackets, tracksuits and sweaters. Printed Elegance Prints, prints and more prints! If there is one trend you pick to follow this season then this is “it”. Almost every brand this S/S is indulging in some variation of this trend. Whether you’re mixing plaids with stripes, prints with plaids, solids with prints, or prints on prints, there are no limits to what you can do. How do you nail this look? Well, though this trend appears to have no rules we do suggest maintaining a base color scheme when creating your ensemble. This will enable you to piece together the right items for the perfect look.


Women’s Trends: Summer 2012

By André Deveaux

Fashion is about evolution redesigning and rediscovering, creating new and revisiting the old. The revival of the 20’s with the Drop waist lines at Etro and Alberta Ferretti and the peblums at Yves saint Laurent shows the remix of the past, present and future of fashion. From Global traveler to Pastel princesses shows the eclectic styles of today and our direction of the fashion for tomorrow Bold Bouquets Florals are back again for spring/summer with more color combinations than ever. Mixing prints like at Dries Van Noten and Antonio Marras, and clashing color at Mary Katrantzou are the way to get your flower fIx this season. Pep Squad In a celebration of the female silhouette more collections than not had peplums involved. Whether soft like Céline, Acne and Yves Saint Laurent, or bold statements like Cushnie et Ochs and Jason Wu, the hips are where it’s at this season. Shine On Shiny fabrics and jewel colors are the loud and proud choice for those looking to make statement this summer. Be it green cellophane trousers like Theysken’s Theory or shimmying satin at Giorgio Armani, you really can’t shine too much. Gatsby Glamour With Baz Luhrmann’s Great Gatsby hitting cinema screens this year, the roaring Twenties is back in vogue. Gucci lead the charge with its deco flapper dresses with Ralph Lauren and Etro close behind. Global Traveller Bottega Veneta was hailed as one of the best collections of the season by editors, but there were plenty of others getting in on the tribal action too Donna Karan, Burberry Prorsum and Etro to name but a few.


Key Looks for Fall 2011

By André DeVeaux

Workplace Cool Essentially the look which most despised, we saw it on the subways during the evenings rush hour and considered only for those who couldn’t keep their painful but appealing shoes on; this look has repeatedly been seen on our runways throughout the last few seasons, which means it’s here to stay well, at least for this season. Add a pair of clean sneakers to formal-trousers topped off with a leather duffle bag and varsity-style jacket, for a look which translates from work to a late-night gym session. Belted Waists Adding a waist-belt to the outer-layer of your outfit essentially “cinching the waist” can take your pieces in a new direction effectively jazzing up a relatively casual-look and giving it that formal edge; this however is not a look for everyone; it takes confidence and pure fearlessness to keep this from looking feminine. My recommendation is to stick to muted-colors and only add the belt to pieces that keep your torso looking masculine by nipping the waist and emphasizing the ‘V’/‘T’ shape of your shoulders and back. The belt should never rise higher than your belly-button area. Leather Vs Denim A trend that’s been bubbling under for quite some time now, maybe it’s the risqué feel of leather paired against what’s considered the epitome of comfortable fashion, denim. Whether it’s a denim jacket with leather sleeves or just simply a pair of leather trousers, add a dash of brawn to your outfits by mixing in a leather piece with some denim to create this spin-off biker style. PVC & Leather Pants Feeding off the current trend for all things daring in fashion, leather or PVC pants maybe both are the must have things to bring your winter wardrobe into 2011. Think slim and drain-pipe fits as opposed to boot-cut and straight-legs to keep this look looking fresh and not dated. Remember the key thing here when buying is to think quality not the cost, well within region. Don’t compromise too much or you may just regret it with a compromising split in the crotch area or the rear. Splash of Red Every season we have that ‘it’ colour, that colour that dominate the rails in trendy stores, that color that’s your first choice out of all the others, that color which feels like it just goes with everything, this season make that color Red. You may decide to go with a head-to-toe look or just opt for that one statement piece, either way make it red and get ready to paint the town. Short-Shorts Most are thinking why I would wear short-shorts in winter yet alone wear short-shorts at all; well this look isn’t for the faint-hearted however it will take you right into Spring/Summer 2012, also adding a refreshing twist to any tops you picked up earlier this year. The key to making this work is to glance back on where fashion has already been, think 80s-sportswear then add a 2011 short-short to it and your done. Blazers, Shirts, Polo-Tees, Vests, whatever you think suits will work, drop it with some luxury-sneakers, white slouchy-socks and you’re done. Short Shorts should leave at least 2-inches hanging room from your crotch-area when standing.


Menswear Trends for Autumn/Winter 2011/12: The Oversized Coat

BY JOÃO PAULO NUNES

In stark contrast to the tight-fitting, tailored suits and jackets inspired by menswear of the 1970s many designers at the recent fashion shows in Milan and Paris opted for a completely contrasting approach to designing overcoats for Autumn/Winter 2011/12. For the cool months of next year, the designers’ collective decision to choose oversized coats indicates the adoption of a trend that favours deconstructed, boxy shapes. In most designer collections shown, these shapes eliminate the contours and overall physicality of the male body by omitting the waist line and allowing the fabric to drape freely from the shoulders. In addition, a recurrent option has been to adopt narrow and sloping shoulders with little or no padding thus only relying on the pulling of fabric at the sleeves to give shape to the garment while its length often goes below the knees. After the return of a moderate version of the 1980s shoulder pads in the first decade of the 21st century, this trend seems to be a resurgence of the anti-power shoulder that many Japanese designers adopted in the 1990s, and that subsequently permeated the designs of Western designers, too. More interestingly, if one bears in mind that the 1990s rejection of large shoulders and sharp silhouettes was a subtle way to voice social concerns by designers, and consumers that rejected a fashion of excess and capitalistic overindulgence, at a time when movements of social unrest seem to be taking place all over the world. This trend can be interpreted as an interesting coincidence or an apt metaphorical comment on the state of world. Coincidence or not, fashion plays an important role in all that we do, and a new style can bring a fresh perspective and reflection of changing times.


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