For his Autumn/Winter 2013 menswear collection, French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier decided to reinterpret traditional menswear by deconstructing conventional sartorial tropes through an amalgamation process. The end result was an extremely accomplished collection of original designs that still allowed for very flattering masculine silhouettes. Using fabrics such as luxurious wools and leather in a palette of black, grey, white, camel, red and emerald, Gaultier created a range of successful garments that included oversized raincoats with dropped shoulders, suits that juxtaposed paneled fabrics, thick knitwear, long leather gloves and high-waisted pleated pants. However, it was the witty deconstruction of menswear that fused tradition with experimentation that caught our attention at Phabrik. This was particularly effective in suit blazers that came cropped or reinvented in shapes that conjured bomber jackets, pinstripe trousers with pleated skirt applications, jumpsuit suits, cropped shirts, and stunning belted overcoats with leather applications that blended traditional overcoat shapes with those of biker jackets.

Brazilian beachwear label Blue Man unveiled its Spring/Summer 2014 collection in the lush and luxurious surroundings of Palácio São Clemente in the Botafogo neighbourhood of Rio de Janeiro during Fashion Rio on 16 April 2013. The venue for the runway show, a palace that was built in the eighteenth century as the residency of a Portuguese aristocratic family and now houses the Portuguese consulate, is a veritable majestic example of the Tropical Baroque aesthetic and a most adroit setting for Blue Man’s seductive collection. Under the creative direction of Thomaz and Sharon Azulay (whose father David Azulay founded the label in the early 1970s by selling the original – and now iconic – side-tied bikini), the collection explored the combination of typically Brazilian fauna and flora with Baroque ornaments found in Portuguese tiles and palace architecture as a reflection of the historical period when the Portuguese court settled in Brazil to escape the Napoleonic invasions and made Rio de Janeiro the capital of the empire. The result achieved by Blue Man was an exciting range of swimwear, beachwear, footwear and accessories in bright colours and detailed patterns that, while combining Rio urban beach culture and historical references, will undoubtedly prove to become popular when they hit the stores later in the year. For Spring/Summer 2014, Blue Man promises fluid pieces in transparent silk for lounging on the beach or by the pool that contrast with structured shoulder and waist lines in bathing suits, shirts and dresses. The influence of Hawaiian surf prints and the brand’s seminal relaxed approach to swimwear can be noticed in frayed denim bikinis and in bodysuits with vivid colours and patterns. And to anchor the lighter fabrics and cheerful designs, Lycra, denim and neoprene provide a successful balance to a collection that had the audience delirious and looking forward to another hot Rio Summer.

Designer Profile - Photographs by Bokehccino Project at Western Canada Fashion Week

This season, designers offered men more exotic ensembles than seen in recent years. Unconventional looks composed entire collections, including head-to-toe florals, white-on-white layering and pops of pastel. Navigate through the whimsy with our top trend picks for the season. White Noise White, white and more white. Layering of this non-colour was a key trend from designers Philip Lim, Gucci, and Givenchy. Popular for women over winter, the clean, sophisticated look is now masculinized. Invest in a great pair of white chinos, or a well-tailored trench to pull of the look with effortless poise. Secret Garden Florals made dashing appearances in many menswear collection and we’re yearning to see this trend walk from the runways onto sidewalks. Find inspiration from Raf Simons’ lengthy floral jackets, showing the print in its most wearable light. Even safer, incorporate the print into your look with accessories such as ties or pocket scarves. Color Theory Spring 2013 runways served bold brights and even pastels for colour thirsty men from the likes of Lanvin, Louis Vuitton and Givenchy. If a head-to-toe pastel pink suit is too intimidating, try easing into the palette by layering the daring hues under your current wardrobe neutrals. But bottom line: go bold or go home. Bombs Away Athletic-inspired apparel rounded the bases this season, including one distinct item – the bomber jacket. Sported in every print, colour and fabric the options are limitless. Party hoppers and fashion insiders might opt for a bomber in red satin and floral print as seen from Dolce & Gabbana , while those looking to flaunt their boyish charm might lean towards a wool or cotton jacket in traditional hues such as navy blue, greys or army green.

It’s an exciting time for us at Mode Models, as we are entering our fifth season supporting Western Canada Fashion Week! We shot five models wearing five Edmontonain designers to celebrate our partnership with the start up. The image proudly commemorates the growing fashion community and our collaborations with talented Edmonton designers in the last few years. Supporting local talent and bringing light to Edmonton’s burgeoning fashion industry has been of utmost importance to us. WCFW has served as a fantastic training platform for fresh faces looking to gain experience on the runway and many of those promising young models are taking the skills learned at the Transalta Arts Barns to propel themselves forward in the international market. Since March 2011 we have been honoured to support Malorie Urbanovitch, Angelique Chmielewski, LUXX, Suka, and Nicole Campre among others. Malorie started working as a stylist for Mode Models. She started showing her eponymous ready to wear line in October 2010 and since then she has been featured in Fashion Magazine and British Vogue. Nicole Campre won WCFW’s inaugural Emerging Designer competition in April 2012. After getting a head start locally by designing for Loft 82, she is now moving forward with her ready to wear line. Nicole has also been featured in Fashion Magazine and British Vogue. Angelique Chmielewski is now based out of New York after graduating from New York’s prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology and working under contemporary designer Yigal Azrouel. Her collection can be found at Coup Garment Boutique. Designers Alisha Schick of Suka Clothing and Derek Jagodzinsky of LUXX RTW have been local design darlings for many years. Alisha celebrated 10 years with her women’s line last year and teaches fashion design and illustration at MC College to the next generation when she isn’t designing her next collection. Derek graduated from the U of A with a Bachelor of Design, followed by an internship in New York with Michael Kaye Couture. In his spare time he is a graphic designer for WCFW and Phabrik Magazine as well heavily involved with their initiatives to support local designers. Both designers stock their wares locally at Bamboo Ballroom (Suka) and Thread Hill (LUXX). These five local trendsetters have received incredible national and international attention, and are quickly raising the bar for the next generation of local artists. We chose to celebrate them as they continue to push the limits of Edmonton fashion and take it to new heights. We look forward to watching these talented individuals continue to grow in the next five seasons.

- Photographer: Ernest studio-e.ca - Photo Assistant: Angela MobergMake Up: James KershawHair: Sandy Tang - Art Director/Stylist: Sandra Sing Fernandes - Models: Julian PHABRIK artist management - Featuring musician Martin Johann Kloppers - Location: Red Piano

- Photography: Amanda Diaz - Photo Assistant: Ferd Isaac - Makeup: James Kershaw - Hair Stylists: Chantal Girard, Jami Cuglietta, Sandy Tang - Art Director/Stylist: Sandra Sing Fernandes

- Photographs by Ernest at studio-e.ca - Hair by Pam Poch for Davines Artistic Team - Makeup by James Kershaw - Styled by Sandra Sing Fernandes - Models Dustin, Marie at Numa Models

- Photographs by Harry Fellows - Assisted by Ijfke Ridgley - Makeup and Hair by Andrew Colvin - Styled by Sandra Sing Fernandes - Filip L. Q Models NYC

Urban Gentleman is the theme for fall with sophisticated fabrics and tailored shapes trending runways from Lanvin, Burberry Prorsum to Yves Saint Laurent. Keep in mind it’s all about the fit no matter what trend you’re embracing. Blue Black No, it’s not navy blue. It’s blue-black, and it flooded runways from Paul Smith to Yves Saint Laurent for Fall 2012. The summer’s bright, cobalt blues took a walk to the dark side and are showing up in moody, inky shades. Grab hold of the trend and invest in a blue-black, classic wool coat or well-tailored suit. Layers As the weather gets cooler, pile on the layers. Seems like a no-brainer, right? But the key to this look is showing off those layers through pattern and texture. Burberry Prorsum nailed the trend by layering polka-dot button-ups under monochromatic suits and classic wool coats. All topped off with gloves and tweed news-boy hats. Texture Touch-worthy fabrics from fur, wool to velvet are now fair game for both men and women. DSquared2 presented green, mohair sweaters in its fall/winter 2012 collection while Lanvin revisited old-fashioned, gangster glamour with wool coats flaunting exaggerated collars in sheep’s fleece. Leather Leather lapels, sleeves, cuffs and collars dominated runways as accents to the dark looks of the season. Wear it discreetly in the details, or invest in a leather blazer or the minimalist motorcycle jacket perfected by Philip Lim.