Women's Footwear Trends The trend for fall/winter 2013 women’s footwear is all about nostalgia and time capsules. The 90’s continue to inspire this season’s hottest looks. Grunge returns, this time mixed with a twist of 70’s punk. The boot continues as a staple of the season, from ankle to over the knee. Chunky heels, heavy metal hardware, exotic animal prints and fur embel lishments giving them varying looks. A resurgence of 40’s style mary janes and T- strap pumps decorated embossed with fur porn poms. Modern touches, such as exposed zips, pointed toes, chunky heels, straps and buckles. Colours ran the gamut from classic black and brown, the surprise of white to a range of this season ‘s hottest hues such as teal, forest green, and oxblood. Men's Footwear Trends Mens footwear continued its evolution Classic shapes such as the lace up dress shoes the casual high top sneak and the workboot are updated with novel fabrics and colours. Metal hardware and patent finish embossed leathers added interest. Even the classic evening slipper was brought forward with animal print finishes and vivid hue, usually paired up with evening attire or a favorite smoking jacket, the modern fashion avatar will mate them his fave denim. Metal hardware and patent finish embossed leathers added interest.

that Sunday on a corner in la Bastille Max roller-skating leader of the pack leading us leading me across the bridge across the Seine but pas sufi for Max and me it is not enough so we continue to Sacre-Coeur and there is no film needed no flash required to capture our journey this camera is internal every second a portrait imprinted as we move through light through dark sans wheels into the night the day the week our dance spilling onto the balcony spinning atop the roof twirling high above the boulevard together we dance nearly naked in body so naked in spirit we continue over then under le Pont-Neuf across le Pont-des Arts up, up, up among the very lights of la Tour Eiffel we continue to continue the dance our dance the beat our beat and this picture of Max and me framed internally can be carried from here to there to any of my imprinted anywheres.     - Photograph by Fani Kanawati

Davines is a Parma, Italy-based high-end haircare brand distinguished by their innovative approach to beauty through pioneering products and projects. With its Italian heritage the company is now one of the most respected in the industry supplying salons and distributors in over 70 countries, while maintaining a boutique sensibility. Founded in 1983 by the Bollati family, the group has branches in Paris, London, New York, Mexico City, Deventer, Lummen and Dusseldorf, and an international team of more than 350 employees worldwide. Our style is a reflection of our curiosity and openness to the world – different cultures, customs, and people that truly inspire us – and our Italian perspective of history and art, design and fashion, culture and lifestyle because it is our heritage and who we are. We love things that reflect simplicity and harmony because their beauty is always modern. And although we’re in tune with today’s mood, we set out to create concepts and products that are destined to become classics with their timeless appeal. Quality to us means having the freedom to create the best products with attention and respect for our environment, using high grade, natural ingredients, and applying scientific rigor to every product to guarantee our customers’ safety. Quality is also intended by all of us, by our partners and consumers as quality of life. At Davines, we dare to do what we believe in and, rather than conforming to the mainstream, allow intuition to pave our path. This gives us the freedom to develop concepts and products that are original, authentic, and emotionally connected with people. Our work is a thoughtful balance of substance and style, nature and science, people and spirit. It is what enables us to create what we call life-enhancing projects. More than two decades later, the davines community spans over 75 countries, thousands of salons and hundreds upon hundreds of passionate hairdressers. Although we continue to grow, with headquarters in Parma, New York City, Paris, London and Mexico city, our roots are firmly planted in our beginnings as a family-owned research laboratory guided by the same desire for quality products with an authentic approach and timeless appeal. Davines launches More Inside The new styling range, the value of a craftsmanship approach, the quality of formulations conceived to shape the creative expression. For Davines, styling is an art that allows stylists to give shape to their creative expression and make the most of their customers’ personality. Staying true to this philosophy, Davines is pleased to present More Inside. These products are honest tools that tell their own story through their characteristics and capabilities, whisper thoughts inspired by their function, elevated to humble and discreet advice, which can be applied to everyday life.

Italian owned Davines chose the Folies Bergere in Paris this year for the Davines World Wide Hair Tour. In its long history, the stage at the Folies Bergere has welcomed many of the world’s most illustrious entertainers and celebrities. This year, from May 26-29, more than 1,600 hairdressers from 45 nations gathered in the city of light to take in the sights and absorb the concepts and techniques presented by the best the world has to offer. The more than 150 Canadian stylists attending the event made their presence known both on the main stage and behind the scenes. Evening celebrations consisted of various dinner and cocktail parties with the special theme “Midnight in Paris’’. Also present at the tour were Phabrik Magazine’s Editor in Chief Sandra Sing Fernandes, and Davines distributor Glenn Stogryn of Stogryn Sales. Canada benefitted greatly with Glenn’s early vision and belief in Davines, as he was responsible for introducing the line into the Canadian market. To this day, Stogryn Sales is a key sponsor and force with Davines for providing amazing education, along with his support of Western Canada Fashion Week. Three of the twenty-nine North American Regional Davines Artistic team members, Chantal Girard (Edmonton) Vicki Frame (Calgary) and James Abu Ulba (Vancouver), are from the Western Canada Davines Session team. Following the show, members of the Western Canada Davines Session Team got to use their expertise for three editorials, two shot in Paris and one in Milan. The results of this collaboration are featured in this issue. The Western Canada Davines Session Team leader Chantal Girard and Sandra Sing Fernandes were also fortunate to be hosted by Davines at their headquarters in Parma Italy. There they spent a full day learning Davines techniques. An impressive factory and office tour showcased their high quality and eco standards, along with a hands on introduction of Davines’ new styling line “More Inside” which is being launched at Western Canada Fashion Week’s More Inside cocktail launch party. 1. The show itself consisted of: Samuel Rocher (French visionary that revives the tradition of excellence in simplicity) 2. Davines’ World Style Contest (10 finalists 2 of them Canadian, one Canadian the winner of best cut Sandro Macri, best color Nguyen Truong Son from Vietnam and over all winner South African Christilena Erasmus) 3. Allilon (Amazing Education Team from the UK creators of the collections Streb, Aces, Mane Childs Play etc), Aldo Signoretti (stylist behind such looks as Baz Luhrmann’s Moulin Rouge and Romeo + Juliet), Vincent Moutault (participated in styling over sixty films seen at Cannes one of his favourites being Berenice Bejo) 4.James Abu Ulba (Canadian winner of WSC 2012), Sustainable Beauty Day (presented by Davines CEO Paolo Braguzzi, NA Creative Director Jorge Blanco, RNA Artistic Team member and top SBD 2012 fundraiser Edmonton’s Chantal Girard) and Eco Salon Presentations (winning salons Vancouver’s Design House, and Italy’s Trecentosessantagradi) 5. Angelo Seminara (Davines’ Artistic Director responsible for the hair looks of a variety of houses such as Chloe, Vivienne Westwood, Chanel, YSL, Hermes, Alberta Ferretti, Kenzo and Alexander McQueen campaigns, and duo Brian Suhr (Davines International Education Coordinator responsible for implementing the Davines trainers programs and Kirsten Demant (stylist with a no boundaries approach to hair styling).

- Makeup + styling by James Kershaw - Photographs + Digital Art by C Side Photography - Models Kelsey Kelsey A, Rachel A - Location PHABRIK art+design Kiss + Tell What’s everybody talking about this autumn? The newest lip products launching from some of the most prolific cosmetic houses on the planet. You will see and hear about not only the haughtest shades of the season, like Clarins’ trio of Joli Rouge hues from their Graphic Expression colour story and Lise Watier’s Rouge Sublime in Tartan from her Tartantastique collection. The Canadian beauty maven has also added two new shades to her Haute Lumiere gloss collection in which the applicator lid lights up when opened. Elizabeth Arden New York launches a new range of Beautiful Colour Moisturizing Lipstick available in thirty six shades in a variety of finishes, housed in a newly designed silver trimmed gold case embossed with the Elizabeth Arden Red Door design. Jane Iredale reinvents her best selling line of lipsticks with a new formula housed in an elegant slim matte gold tube. The range of twenty four shades combines some of the best selling shades from her previous line with a variety of newly developed fashion aware hues. FantasEYES This will be a very exciting season for eye makeup aficionados. Clinique’s new All About Shadow collection includes single, duo and quad eye shadow compacts in an array of classic and fashion forward shades. Clinique uses special fusion layering and variable milling technologies to provide an eyelid smoothing, creamy application all while delivering rich, true colour intensity. Their All About Shadow Primer for Eyes was created to improve colour retention, reduce creasing and extend wear of eye make up, and is available in four shades to reach a broad range of skin tones. Clarins Paris also debuts a few news worthy items this fall, the house’s new Be Long Mascara Length + Curve and their 3- Dot Liner (which quickly attained cult status when first introduced as a limited edition item in 2012, now back permanently in the line) both contain Clarins’ growth stimulating Be Long Lash Complex which claims a 1mm addition in length after 4 weeks use. The house also debuts their new line of Crayon Khol pencils with brush (eight shades available) to be applied like a traditional khol inside the lash line or along the base of the lashes on the upper or lower lid. “Going green” takes on a whole new meaning this Autumn, as more than a few lines fall colour stories contain eyeshadows in various shades of the verdant hue such as Clarins new Forest Eye Quartet Mineral Palette, Lise Watier’s limited edition Tartantastique eye shadow Quartet an Elizabeth Arden’s Classic Khaki eye shadow duo. Truly an eye make up lovers fantasy come true!

For his Autumn/Winter 2013 menswear collection, French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier decided to reinterpret traditional menswear by deconstructing conventional sartorial tropes through an amalgamation process. The end result was an extremely accomplished collection of original designs that still allowed for very flattering masculine silhouettes. Using fabrics such as luxurious wools and leather in a palette of black, grey, white, camel, red and emerald, Gaultier created a range of successful garments that included oversized raincoats with dropped shoulders, suits that juxtaposed paneled fabrics, thick knitwear, long leather gloves and high-waisted pleated pants. However, it was the witty deconstruction of menswear that fused tradition with experimentation that caught our attention at Phabrik. This was particularly effective in suit blazers that came cropped or reinvented in shapes that conjured bomber jackets, pinstripe trousers with pleated skirt applications, jumpsuit suits, cropped shirts, and stunning belted overcoats with leather applications that blended traditional overcoat shapes with those of biker jackets.

At the age of fourteen, Deolinda Bernardo decided she wanted to dedicate her career to keeping the Portuguese tradition of fado music alive. Deolinda began singing at a very early age, cultivating a love and passion for music. Although she spent the first years of her musical career singing contemporary styles such as pop and rock, her difficult childhood made the emotion and power of fado an appealing creative outlet. Fado’s origins trace back to before the nineteenth century, spreading out from Lisbon to other regions in Portugal, gradually developing distinct regional styles. A bit like North American blues music, fado requires precise and delicate technique to tell very passionate and emotional stories. The music requires active listening, leading it to be compared to opera; fado songs often require some knowledge of the tradition and subject matter carries emotional significance. In Lisbon, fado music has developed a modern flavour, with influences from Africa and Brazil, the style in this region has developed a unique urban feel. The northern areas of Portugal take on a Celtic sound, while the middle regions of Portugal absorb inspiration from their southern neighbor, Spain. In the southern-central countryside of Alentejo, the music has North African influences. These influences reflect Portugal’s interesting pattern of trade and political relationships with the countries surrounding it. The most distinct of the regional styles comes from Coimbra, and is occasionally referred to as student fado. This style is recognizable for it’s exclusively male voices, and was made popular by the large student population in the city. Deolinda developed a love for music and singing at a very early in her life, and it was a constant in her difficult childhood. At 3 years old, separated from her mother, she began listening to the radio at her grandmother’s home where she was living. As she grew older she began singing, primarily in rock, jazz, and pop styles while working in a factory. Around this time she began to delve into the fado tradition, finding herself able to connect to the emotional stories the songs shared. When she was about fourteen, she recognized that her passion was something she truly wanted to share, and despite the difficult path pursing music would entail, she decided to follow it. As a young single mother, the life of a musician was not easy. She spent much of her twenties singing in hotel piano bars. These nights were difficult and often thankless, but she learned many things about performing and developed as an artist. Fado is a very technical music form with significant regional variances, and Deolinda took care to learn about all of them, becoming proficient in many of the styles and learning an extensive repertoire of classic songs. She performs with great enthusiasm and joy, educating her listeners about the traditions and songs as she is singing. Luckily, youth are beginning to develop an interest in fado again, with artists like Mariza, who performs a pop-fado fusion, performing to large audiences and generating new interest into the traditional style. As a result this traditional music is experiencing a resurgence. Currently, she performs weekly in Obidos, a castle in central Portugal. The castle is unique, as it is one of few that people still live in. The perfect location for Deolinda to share her traditional music, Obidos has a vibrant culture, hosting markets and medieval fairs requiring period dress. She performs at Troca-Tontas each Monday night, a small intimate venue serving traditional food. Despite singing with no microphone, her voice fills the room with ease. Deolinda loves performing and watching the eyes of her audience and soaking in their energy, and this shows through her endearing nature and charisma. She will also be performing and leading a seminar on the first Monday of each month at PHABRIK in Serra del Rei, which will be open to all ages. For the last 15 years, Deolinda has travelled and performed with her partner and best friend, Jose Piras, a fellow musician. Sharing a core musical philosophy has made it natural for them to work together. An excellent musician in his own right, he frequently accompanies her singing, covers male parts, and writes his own music. Together, they share an intense performing schedule, frequently performing more than once a day, as well as travelling, within Portugal and internationally.

Brazilian beachwear label Blue Man unveiled its Spring/Summer 2014 collection in the lush and luxurious surroundings of Palácio São Clemente in the Botafogo neighbourhood of Rio de Janeiro during Fashion Rio on 16 April 2013. The venue for the runway show, a palace that was built in the eighteenth century as the residency of a Portuguese aristocratic family and now houses the Portuguese consulate, is a veritable majestic example of the Tropical Baroque aesthetic and a most adroit setting for Blue Man’s seductive collection. Under the creative direction of Thomaz and Sharon Azulay (whose father David Azulay founded the label in the early 1970s by selling the original – and now iconic – side-tied bikini), the collection explored the combination of typically Brazilian fauna and flora with Baroque ornaments found in Portuguese tiles and palace architecture as a reflection of the historical period when the Portuguese court settled in Brazil to escape the Napoleonic invasions and made Rio de Janeiro the capital of the empire. The result achieved by Blue Man was an exciting range of swimwear, beachwear, footwear and accessories in bright colours and detailed patterns that, while combining Rio urban beach culture and historical references, will undoubtedly prove to become popular when they hit the stores later in the year. For Spring/Summer 2014, Blue Man promises fluid pieces in transparent silk for lounging on the beach or by the pool that contrast with structured shoulder and waist lines in bathing suits, shirts and dresses. The influence of Hawaiian surf prints and the brand’s seminal relaxed approach to swimwear can be noticed in frayed denim bikinis and in bodysuits with vivid colours and patterns. And to anchor the lighter fabrics and cheerful designs, Lycra, denim and neoprene provide a successful balance to a collection that had the audience delirious and looking forward to another hot Rio Summer.

Fur: A vintage feel—but with a modern edge Coats are a winter mainstay, this season many of them are oversized with full voluminous cuffs. It’s all part of a trend toward architectural cuts in clothing. Fur coats and jackets made the biggest comeback this year. Many of the silhouettes featured flared skirts and wide belts reminiscent of couture favorites from bygone eras. Paring down the silhouette using coarse furs for elegant wear was often associated with Fendi in the past. Fendi is to fur as Ferrari is to cars. Yet given current concerns about animal rights, the brand has moved from the lavish fur coats that were all the rage in the 1980s to a more discreet way of interpreting fur. Fur appeared as inserts in skirts or dresses, or sheared and fashioned into cozy, understated jackets. Long haired furs, such as goat, also appeared on other runways during Milan’s preview showings. DSquared2 Both the masculine and feminine sides of the DSquared2 label were shouting other for attention. Pencil skirts paired with belted jackets, one with layered, architectural lapels. But for evening, the mood was more speak-easy slinky with silky dresses with an asymmetrical, trailing feather boa hemline or a fur stole. Many designers featured fur at this season of preview shows, including Roberto Cavalli who used it mainly to trim the hoods of his winter parkas. That was enough to draw the wrath of a small group of animal rights activists who disrupted the show holding up signs in Italian saying, “Your fashion is our death,” until they were forcibly removed. Prada Long luxurious mink coats had ample collars and cuffs like the ones Hollywood royalty wore during the 1950s. Coats have extra wide cuffs and are often belted at the waist and flared toward the bottom.