- Makeup by James Kershaw for Jane Iredale - Photographs by Ernest at studio-e.ca - Model Paula B. Beauty is luminous this season, embellished with an array of shimmering metallics. Ignite your look, day or evening with reflective metal finish cosmetics in a variety of textures. Molten metal finish liquid eye liners and nail lacquers, creamy metallic highlighter pencils and glistening cream shadows should be on every one’s "gilty pleasure" list this fall.

William Richard Green’s autumn/winter 2011 collection stands out for its eclectic influences and its intention to deconstruct the idea of luxury. This is done by resorting to strong influences from outdoors menswear and relaxed grunge tailoring. Green claims that the inspiration for the collection is the ‘Viking’ and its uncouthness as the antithesis of lavishness. However, it seems more accurate to describe his garments and accessories as paying homage to British sartorial tradition and to the rebellious urban tribes and subcultures of the second half of the twentieth century. In his promotional material, Green has indicated that his work is partly inspired by the free-spirited approach to life that he gained during his formative years in the English countryside. He was born in 1985 in Worcestershire, and spent his childhood and teenage years in that West Midlands English county before moving to London to study fashion. In 2009, he earned a degree from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design with a collection that he dubbed as ‘wearable manly menswear’. He also trained at London’s Savile Row, a world centre for menswear tailoring. There, he went through important training in pattern cutting and gained useful insights into sartorial craftsmanship. The academic training at Central Saint Martins and the skills that Green gained during his period of practical experience allowed him to embark on an ongoing process of questioning the more traditional mores of menswear and luxury. At the same time, there is little doubt that this young designer has been firmly embracing his British identity. This dedication is strongly evidenced in the decision to produce only in the UK and source fabrics predominantly manufactured in Britain.

Workplace Cool Essentially the look which most despised, we saw it on the subways during the evenings rush hour and considered only for those who couldn’t keep their painful but appealing shoes on; this look has repeatedly been seen on our runways throughout the last few seasons, which means it’s here to stay well, at least for this season. Add a pair of clean sneakers to formal-trousers topped off with a leather duffle bag and varsity-style jacket, for a look which translates from work to a late-night gym session. Belted Waists Adding a waist-belt to the outer-layer of your outfit essentially “cinching the waist” can take your pieces in a new direction effectively jazzing up a relatively casual-look and giving it that formal edge; this however is not a look for everyone; it takes confidence and pure fearlessness to keep this from looking feminine. My recommendation is to stick to muted-colors and only add the belt to pieces that keep your torso looking masculine by nipping the waist and emphasizing the ‘V’/‘T’ shape of your shoulders and back. The belt should never rise higher than your belly-button area. Leather Vs Denim A trend that’s been bubbling under for quite some time now, maybe it’s the risqué feel of leather paired against what’s considered the epitome of comfortable fashion, denim. Whether it’s a denim jacket with leather sleeves or just simply a pair of leather trousers, add a dash of brawn to your outfits by mixing in a leather piece with some denim to create this spin-off biker style. PVC & Leather Pants Feeding off the current trend for all things daring in fashion, leather or PVC pants maybe both are the must have things to bring your winter wardrobe into 2011. Think slim and drain-pipe fits as opposed to boot-cut and straight-legs to keep this look looking fresh and not dated. Remember the key thing here when buying is to think quality not the cost, well within region. Don’t compromise too much or you may just regret it with a compromising split in the crotch area or the rear. Splash of Red Every season we have that ‘it’ colour, that colour that dominate the rails in trendy stores, that color that’s your first choice out of all the others, that color which feels like it just goes with everything, this season make that color Red. You may decide to go with a head-to-toe look or just opt for that one statement piece, either way make it red and get ready to paint the town. Short-Shorts Most are thinking why I would wear short-shorts in winter yet alone wear short-shorts at all; well this look isn’t for the faint-hearted however it will take you right into Spring/Summer 2012, also adding a refreshing twist to any tops you picked up earlier this year. The key to making this work is to glance back on where fashion has already been, think 80s-sportswear then add a 2011 short-short to it and your done. Blazers, Shirts, Polo-Tees, Vests, whatever you think suits will work, drop it with some luxury-sneakers, white slouchy-socks and you’re done. Short Shorts should leave at least 2-inches hanging room from your crotch-area when standing.

Chic city cycling - does it exist? Tracey Ellis takes a test drive down the elite runway of one of the world’s busiest and most fashionable cities to see the latest cycling trends. Cycling doesn’t have to be all about skin-tight spandex and sore behinds. It can be a journey meandering from A to B, the quickest route to work, or a relaxing ride to de-stress. Cycling is also better for the environment, good exercise, and quite often a quicker mode of transportation than the clogged commute that exists in most cities. And with more and more women taking to city streets on two wheels, the fashions stakes have diversified with ladies emerging in the shape of sexy, modish forms astride metal stallions of all shapes and sizes. It’s all stemming from where most things fashionable and feminine do - the stylish city of Paris.Riding a bike is not new to most people, but riding it around the gridlocked streets that consume Paris has its challenges. With motorbikes weaving and pedestrians wandering aimlessly, the Parisian roads can be a dangerous obstacle course for cyclists, almost requiring a full suit of armour for protection. But in true French ‘laissez-faire’ style, almost anything goes for cycling attire; combining fashion with an air of sensibility is the key. The introduction of the hugely successful ‘Velib’ in July 2007 - the largest ‘self-service’ public cycling system in the world - has made city cycling easily accessible to everyone, and many women have embraced this healthy lifestyle with handbag and heels in tow. The installation of 1,451 velib stations offering more than 20,000 bicycles has prompted a huge increase in women using the bike for commuting to work, short trips, or when taxis are unavailable. As of May 2008, women riders make up nearly half of the cyclist population in Paris. So, Parisian women are using the bike more, but are they maintaining their renowned ‘chicness’ while cycling? Apparently so (pics) And surely tight, short skirts and high heels are out of the question? Apparently not (pic) It seems some Parisians are not willing to sacrifice style for practicality, and if they turn a few heads in their journey, even better. Cycling fashion has moved on considerably since bicycles were first invented in 1878 - a time when full skirts and ‘woollen suits’ were the outfits women were expected to wear, along with waist-pinching corsets. Cumbersome, heavy, and hot, women’s cycling dress was anything but sensible, but they were determined to master this new two-wheeled contraption while maintaining their decorum. Surprisingly, the cycling trend has prompted trends in fashion over the years. Bloomers were created by skirts being buckled around the ankles for safety, a smart and eventually stylish solution because by the 1890’s bloomers were worn increasingly in public in Paris, not just on bikes. These soon became quite fashionable in the form of ‘Turkish trouser’ style outfits. Then in 1895 came the bloomers costume with high laced boots (pic). Deemed to be safer than a skirt, this outfit also retained a woman’s femininity rather than having to ‘dress like a man’. And let’s not forget the men: cycling in their business suits they look just as smart as the women, cruising along Rue de Rivoli with their briefcases in baskets. Back in the 1890’s, a ‘Norfolk suit’ was the dress of choice, an iconic outfit made of sturdy tweed paired with box pleats over the chest and back and matching baggy-kneed trousers. These ‘knickerbockers’ - worn with knee-length stockings and low shoes - were the sportswear fashion that men wore shooting and golfing as well as cycling. Men of today may have dropped the knickerbockers but remain ever-classy in their Dior or Chanel suits cycling to work. Undoubtedly, today’s cycling fashion has become less bulky and more liberated. Unless one is training for the Tour de France, being fashionable at all times is central to the Parisian spirit. Here’s how they do it:The ‘must-have’ accessory on a bike is sunglasses. Not only do they look cool, but they keep out bugs, harsh wind and dust. As for shoes, flats or wedges are best, but heels are possible too if you can master your balance at the red lights. Parisian women get it right by wearing kitten heels or pretty ballet flats instead of stilettos, remaining stylish but sensible. Scarves are in every Parisian’s wardrobe all year round. They cut the chill on windier days and rarely fail to look stylish.Dresses and skirts may free the legs, but keep in mind they can ride as high as five inches when cycling. Whether a slim-fitting Dior suit or flowing fifties skirt, the Parisians wear them often as it is effortlessly sexy and completely feminine .Tight, skinny jeans teamed with gladiator sandals have been a popular look this past summer, the stretchy variety for ease of movement while pedalling. With fall approaching, classic trench coats of all lengths and colours are appearing, flowing out like mini wing extensions as they ride by.The biggest fashion faux pas on bikes? Riding with low-rise trousers so your underwear is showing (this is like an open invitation to Parisian men). And backpacks; instead you see designer handbags, briefcases, or shopping bags resting in baskets or bags on a long strap across the body. The other reason Parisians are the most fashionable cyclists? They have little interest in wearing helmets. Free-flowing hair overrides safety, but at least the cycling speed is slower in the city. The future of bike fashion looks modern, versatile and creative: the unisexy Dhoti lounge pants from Down Town Betty and Outlier’s daily riding pants for women are two examples of progression created by past trends. And with Bike Fashion Shows popping up in New York and Vancouver presenting ‘fashion-forward’ chic urban clothing designed with the bicyclist in mind, it could help promote a cycling lifestyle to suit everyone. Sportswear is ultimately considered an American invention, while the home of ‘designer sportswear’ resides most definitely in Paris with designers such as Gabrielle Chanel creating haute couture designs, (though they are not as flexible as American sportswear). But when it comes to basic cycling that has a purpose, the Parisians are masters at combining chicness with practicality, especially when using their bike as a way to get to and from work while maintaining a business wardrobe.The French prove that fashion for the active person doesn’t have to be about cycling shorts and t-shirts. It’s more about fashion for the active business person which, for them, doesn’t have to lose style, just as long as you can pedal.

Chicago architecture firm Adrian Smith + Gordon Gill (AS+GG) have released the first images for the Kingdom Tower, set to be the world’s tallest building. At over 1,000 meters (3,280 feet) and a total construction area of 530,000 square meters (5.7 million square feet), the Kingdom Tower will be the centre piece and first construction phase of the Kingdom City development on a 5.3 million-square-meter site in north Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. The tower’s height will be at least 173 meters (568 feet) taller than the world’s current tallest building, Dubai’s 828-meter-tall Burj Khalifa, which was designed by Adrian Smith while at Skidmore, Owings & Merrill. Kingdom Tower will feature a Four Seasons hotel, office space, luxury apartments and the world’s highest observatory. Design development of the tower is under way, with construction expected to begin imminently. Foundation drawings are complete and the piling for the tower is currently being tendered. The tower will cost approximately $1.2 billion to construct, while the cost of the entire Kingdom City project is anticipated to be $20 billion. In addition to its status as an architectural landmark and economic symbol, the Kingdom Tower was conceived to have cultural significance. The tower is envisioned as a new marker of Jeddah’s historic importance as the traditional gateway to the holy city of Mecca. To this end, the design of the southeast leg of the Kingdom Tower’s tripedal base is on a direct line with the Ka’ba in Mecca, Islam’s holiest site. Architect Gordon Gill has described the streamlined form of the tower as being inspired by the folded fronds of young desert plant growth: “The way the fronds sprout upward from the ground as a single form, then start separating from each other at the top, is an analogy of new growth fused with technology.” The three-petal footprint is also believed to be ideal for residential units, and the tapering wings are expected to produce an aerodynamic shape that helps reduce structural loading due to wind vortex shedding. The immense height of the Kingdom Tower will require one of the world’s most sophisticated elevator systems. The complex will contain 59 elevators, including 54 single-deck and five double-deck elevators, along with 12 escalators. Elevators serving the observatory will travel at a rate of 10 meters per second in both directions. Another feature of the design is a sky terrace, roughly 30 meters (98 feet) in diameter, at level 157. AS+GG also designed the master plan for the 23-hectare Kingdom Tower Waterfront District, which surrounds the tower and which will include residential and commercial buildings, a shopping mall, outdoor spaces and other amenities.

Frank Gehry’s latest skyscraper, the residential tower simply branded as ‘New York by Gehry’, is now reaching completion. As its first residents get ready to move in, the building, located at 8 Spruce Street in Lower Manhattan, has already made a significant impact on the architectural landscape of New York City. At 265 metre (870 feet) tall, New York by Gehry is the tallest residential tower in the Western Hemisphere and the eighth tallest building in New York. The stainless steel exterior, with its seductive rippling effect, covers three faces of the tower and creates bay windows for the apartments. At the same time, it reflects the changing light, transforming the appearance of the building throughout the day. The tower contains 903 apartments laid out in over 200 floor plans for studios, and one, two and three-bedroom residences. Gehry’s aesthetic is also carried across the 22,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor amenity spaces with personalized furnishings and installations. Frank Gehry is widely regarded as one of the most celebrated practicing architects in the world. He has been the recipient of numerous awards recognizing excellence in architecture, including, in 1989, the prestigious Pritzker Architecture Prize, which honours “significant contributions to humanity and the built environment through the art of architecture.” Over the past five decades, Gehry Partners LLP has designed numerous public and private buildings in North America, Europe, and Asia.

- Photographs by Greg Swales - Makeup by James Kershaw - Styled by Sandra Sing Fernandes - Braeden at Mode Models

- Photographs by Greg Swales - Makeup by James Kershaw - Styled by Sandra Sing Fernandes - Megan M at Modemodels

Known for exquisite tailoring and minute-attention to detail, the quirky designer of the Montreal-based, self-titled label Dimitri Chris delivered an impeccable F/W ’10 runway show. A collection brimming with tailored tweeds, suits and vests, knee high equestrian boots, page boy hats and a smattering of houndstooth and plaid, the smartly attired models could have –in all reality- walked right off of the catwalk and climbed onto a horse, forest bound. British to the core, Chris succeeded in marrying together the essence of the English hunting culture with modern, wearable clothes. I was fortunate enough to make it backstage to interview Chris about his latest collection; bearded with dark, fly-away hair, I towered over the designer. Smartly attired in a grey vest, grey pants, and a red and white checkered bowtie, the short-in-stature designer reminded me of a mad scientist; an Albert Einstein of fashion, if you will: What sets you apart from other menswear designers? Are there a lot of menswear designers? We have Bustle and Dubuc and Philip Sparks. We all have a different aesthetic. Bustle has their own distinct quirky look and Philip Sparks, while still into the tailoring, has a more laid-back and relaxed look. My background is in tailoring and that plays into the collection. I want to push the envelope There’s room for everyone. I loved the coats with the built in scarves; I thought it was a brilliant concept! Thank you! You see, a lot of my friends were bitching and complaining that they are always losing their scarves, having to tuck them into their sleeves. So I said “There you go. You don’t need to worry about it”. Who is the Dimitri Chris Man? I’d like to say it’s a young professional. Somebody starting out in his life, in general being social and business and cultural, but obviously it’s hard to want to cater to just a select clientele. That being said, it’s very wearable. The garments are very wearable. The idea behind ‘Master of the Foxhounds’ was derived from English hunting culture; where did you come up with the concept? I was inspired by British culture, royalty and their traditions and lifestyle and hunting, which is their leisure sport. The collection is very British. What do you hope to bring to the table in terms of men’s fashion? Wearable garments with an emphasis on tailoring. And what can we expect from you in the future? To be there. You can expect me to be there.

Canada has become a leader on the festival world stage hosting the likes of the Toronto International Film Festival, the Montreal Jazz Festival, and the Edmonton Fringe Festival. Edmonton is also home to the Edmonton Folk Music Festival (EFMF), an event that is now viewed as one of the foremost music festivals in the world offering an incredibly diverse musical range that many say is not just folk-based, at affordable prices. Held in Edmonton’s downtown Gallagher Park every second weekend in August, past performers include Elvis Costello, Sarah McLachlan, Blue Rodeo and Ryan Adams. In 2010, festival goers were treated to performances by artists such as Jakob Dylan, Ben Harper, Gord Downie, Colleen Brown and Basia Bulat. “When I joined the EFMF the festival was $60,000 in debt and weekend passes were selling for $20,” Producer Terry Wickham tells Phabrik Magazine. “I come from a business and economic background. To change an image or perception of something you have to change the programming.” This is exactly what he did. One of his goals was to increase the awareness of folk music through the depth of the performer line-ups selecting artists within a broad musical mandate--mixing familiar and not so familiar as well as repeat and first time performers together. Festival goers have the chance to experience music from around the world such as this past season’s performance by Bassekou Kouyate & Ngoni Ba from Africa. At the same time, the festival maintains at least 40% Canadian content. ”I remember driving back from Calgary after the 1992 North American Folk Alliance Conference. I had this sudden flash of the full potential of our festival and here we are 18 years later,” says Wickham. His goal was realized when his dream came true to have Van Morrison play for the fans in August 2010. When asked who would be next now that this dream has been realized? “There are so many, but I would have to say my next would be Paul Simon. The festival is volunteer driven and works to ensure the proper treatment and respect of the volunteers, audience, performers, sponsors and media. Over 2,000 volunteers work to deliver the majority of services provided to patrons of the festival. Media Liaison, Sylvio Dobri, has been involved with the EFMF for 31 years. “I am encouraged by the growing number of younger volunteers who are becoming involved in the festival community,” says Dobri. The number of youth volunteers continues to grow each year, ensuring there will be a well trained group to keep the festival alive. “Musicians laud and applaud the festival and its army of volunteers. Whether young or old, first-timers or festival veterans, musicians performing here are always eager to talk to the Edmonton writers and broadcasters,” states Dobri. He shares his favourite memory to date of, “Taking Ramblin’ Jack Elliot to a local radio interview and after he was done driving him to the Hudson’s Bay store on Jasper Avenue where he spent an hour trying on colourful Hudson’s Bay coats.”