Fur: A vintage feel—but with a modern edge Coats are a winter mainstay, this season many of them are oversized with full voluminous cuffs. It’s all part of a trend toward architectural cuts in clothing. Fur coats and jackets made the biggest comeback this year. Many of the silhouettes featured flared skirts and wide belts reminiscent of couture favorites from bygone eras. Paring down the silhouette using coarse furs for elegant wear was often associated with Fendi in the past. Fendi is to fur as Ferrari is to cars. Yet given current concerns about animal rights, the brand has moved from the lavish fur coats that were all the rage in the 1980s to a more discreet way of interpreting fur. Fur appeared as inserts in skirts or dresses, or sheared and fashioned into cozy, understated jackets. Long haired furs, such as goat, also appeared on other runways during Milan’s preview showings. DSquared2 Both the masculine and feminine sides of the DSquared2 label were shouting other for attention. Pencil skirts paired with belted jackets, one with layered, architectural lapels. But for evening, the mood was more speak-easy slinky with silky dresses with an asymmetrical, trailing feather boa hemline or a fur stole. Many designers featured fur at this season of preview shows, including Roberto Cavalli who used it mainly to trim the hoods of his winter parkas. That was enough to draw the wrath of a small group of animal rights activists who disrupted the show holding up signs in Italian saying, “Your fashion is our death,” until they were forcibly removed. Prada Long luxurious mink coats had ample collars and cuffs like the ones Hollywood royalty wore during the 1950s. Coats have extra wide cuffs and are often belted at the waist and flared toward the bottom.

Designer Profile - Photographs by Bokehccino Project at Western Canada Fashion Week

- Product Photographs + Digital Art by C Side Photography - Men’s Headshots by Grant Olson Photography - Art Direction + text by James Kershaw - Hair by Nicole Fusco for Revive hair loft - Models Andrew, Cody, Elijah, Diljot at phabrik model + artist management The modern man wants something unusual or exotic. The scents in his fragrance wardrobe, need to reflect the many facets to his personality. A few fragrances featured here are classics, some are new versions of best sellers, and some are totally new creations. Paco Rabanne’s 1 Million Intense is a new version of the original scent launched in 2008. This new version has notes of Blood Mandarin, Rose Neroli, Cinnamon and Orris root. The ad campaigns for both the original and the new Intense version feature Alberta born model Mat Gordon. Mont Blanc Legend Intense is a spicier interpretation of the original launched earlier this year. New note additions include Pepperwood and Red Apple. Limited edition versions such as Thierry Mugler’s A*Men Pure Malt Creation 2013 was inspired by traditional techniques used to produce the finest whiskies (aged in oak casks), to produce woodier, smoky notes. A few famous European fashion houses are launching new scents to tempt the discerning consumer, Hermes Paris, the house founded in 1837 is now a global powerhouse known for luxury goods. Many of the world’s top designers have worked for Hermes, such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Martin Margiela. One of the houses newest scents is Eau De Mandarine Ambree, launched at Holt Renfrew in June, it’s already in their top ten sellers. Bottega Veneta, the artisanal leather goods company formed in 1966 introduces Pour Homme , the house’s first fragrance for men, following the successful launch of their debut women’s scent in 2011. Some of the scent’s exotic notes are Canadian Fir Resin, Jamaican Pepper, the key note is Andalusian Labdanum. Burberry, the house known for their iconic plaid accessories and the trench coat debuts another addition to their growing catalogue of men’s scents. Burberry Brit Rhythm’s top notes consist of basil, and cardamom, middle notes include leather and patchouli, the cedar and Tonka bean round out the base. Azzaro Chrome United, a celebration of friendship, is a new interpretation of the best selling original Azzaro Chrome. The scent’s many exotic notes include Sichuan pepper, Ceylon Black Tea, Violet leaf and White Musk. Prada’s most recent men’s offering is Luna Rossa, launched earlier this year, the scent is named for the “Red Moon” sailboat and team that competes in the America Cup. Some of the scents ingredients are Bitter Orange, Spearmint and Ambroxan molecule. Look for a new limited edition of the scent to debut later this fall. Iconic American Menswear designer John Varvatos’, (two time winner of the CFDA American Fashion Award for Menswear Designer of The Year) most recent scent is not brand new, Star U.S.A. launched in 2010 to rave reviews, the scents notes of Red Ginger Essence, Blue Spruce and Venezuelan Tonka Bean struck a cord with consumers, His first scent simply named John Varvatos launched in 2004 is still among the fragrance world’s top sellers.

- Art Direction + text by James Kershaw - Photographs + Digital Art by C Side Photography - Model Andrew H at phabrik model + artist management The ensuite is becoming the new male room as more men discover the benefits of caring for their skin. Products that treat, protect and rejuvenate are available for all areas head to toe. They now demand products that go beyond the basics to enhance the effects of items they are already using for skin cleansing, hydration and comfortable shaving. Twenty-first century males are seeking problem solvers for anti-aging, wrinkle reduction, and fatigue fighting. Specialty items for the vulnerable eye area that reduce under eye darkness and puffiness, formulas for dark spot correction (hyperpigmentation) caused by sun exposure and wrinkle reducing serums that supplement their daily regimen.

- Text + art direction: James Kershaw - Photography + digital art: C Side Photography Beauty Boosters Serums are the cosmetic industry’s beauty boosters. The Europeans were the first to appreciate the benefits that serums offer, now every major cosmetic house globally is introducing the concept of serums to their clientele. Serums supplement the daily skin care regimen and boost the efficacy of other skin preparations since they contain a much higher concentration of active ingredients than regular creams or lotions. Serums are an efficient way to customize any beauty program to the changing needs of the skin whether due to environmental factors, health, stress or the effects of aging. Clarins Paris, a pioneer in the development of specialized serums, launches Double Serum Complete Age Control Concentrate. This next generation of serums combines a lipidic (oil) + hydric (water) system housed in a bottle with a dispensing system designed to deliver the ideal blend of both. The formula contains twenty plant extracts the house chose for their exceptional performance in stimulating the five vital functions of the skin, nutrition, oxygenation, regeneration, protection and hydration. The formula was designed to be effective for all skin types beginning at age twenty five. Elizabeth Arden New York’s Visible Difference Optimizing Skin Serum contains a retinyl complex that gently retexturizes and renews skin’s clarity as it evens skin tone optimizing the effect of the daily skin care regimen. The serum is suitable for all skin types including sensitive. Prevage Anti-aging + Intensive Repair Daily Serum promises to improve the appearance of fine lines and “lift” the look of the skin within fifteen minutes of application. This new formula combines Idebenone with Arazine which helps to minimize the visible signs of aging caused by cellular inflammation. Nuxelle Jeunesse Youth and Radiance Revealing Fluid by Nuxe Paris is referred to by the house as the first “floral battery’’ that repairs Mitochondrial DNA to reveal skin’s youth and visibly recharge the complexion’s radiance. Passion Flower extract, Anchusa extract, rich in poly phenols and Poppy extract, obtained from organic poppy petals aids in cellular nutrition. This serum may be used by normal or combination skins on its own or in conjunction with daily skincare for dry or very dry skins by women of all ages. Visionary Care The delicate skin of the eye is one of the first areas to show signs of fatigue and the effects of aging. There are a variety of eye treatments available now to address these symptoms which include puffiness, dark circles, fine lines and crows feet. Eye treatments need to be both gentle for this often sensitive area, yet rich enough to nourishan area with virtually no natural protection. Featured here are some recently introduced products as well as a few tried and true classics. Clarins Paris’ Super Restorative Total Eye Concentrate treats the mature eye from temple to temple, targeting frown lines, puffiness, dark circles and crows feet, while the skin care authority’s Eye Contour Gel is the ideal first eye treatment for the younger set just starting to think about age prevention. Clinique’s new Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle Correcting Eye Cream builds natural elastin to visibly reduce wrinkles, improve texture and repair UV damage. The brand claims up to a 54% decrease in smile lines around the eyes. The Prevage Anti-Aging Eye Serum claims to not only minimize fine lines, deeper wrinkles, darkness and puffiness, but to diminish discolouration and age spots due to sun damage, resulting in a brighter, firmer and lifted appearance. All eye preparations should be applied with gentle pressing or tapping motions avoiding pulling or stretching of the delicate tissue around the eyes. Of course no eye treatment can be fully effective if the area is being harshly handled or aggressively cleansed. Products developed specifically for the area should always be used to supplement and fortify the positive effects of creams, gels and serums. Prebiotic Micellar Water by Canadian beauty maven Lise Watier is a no rinse eye and face cleanser to utilize **prebiotic sugars with the shield effect of Teflose. **Prebiotic molecules are sugars that stimulate the growth of beneficial bacteria needed to balance out natural skin flora. In June, Clarins Paris will launch two newly reformulated eye make up removers, one for waterproof eye make up and the Gentle Eye Make-up Remover featured. The Gentle Eye Make-up remover contains certified organic cornflower and rose floral waters with chamomile extract obtained through organic farming. Clarins also added D-Panthenol to help protect and strengthen lashes.

For his womenswear collection for Spring/Summer 2013, shown as part of London Fashion Week’s official calendar on 14 September 2012, Jean-Pierre Braganza unveiled a range of clothes that resulted from an enriching collaboration with Ukranian artist Zinaida Lihacheva. Prints created by Lihacheva that explored organic forms in vivid colours contrasted with the sharp angularities, intricate tailoring, and sensual draping that Braganza has been known for. Born in London to an Irish mother and Asian father, Jean-Pierre Braganza moved to Canada at an early age. He grew up in Montreal and Toronto, and studied Fine Arts before realising that fashion was his true calling. After a stint studying Fashion, Braganza moved to London where he was accepted directly into the second year of the Womenswear programme at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. Upon graduating in 2002 with a ‘First’ (the top grade in the UK system) in the main area of study, his talent was rewarded with the Colin Barns award for illustration. During his days at Central Saint Martins, Braganza developed his skills while working with British avant-garde fashion designer Robert Cary-Williams. This experience provided the training needed to understand the deconstructive processes of fashion and to develop the dedication required for working with hard materials such as leather. After graduation, he joined Roland Mouret where he honed his tailoring skills and learned an appreciation for detail. His initial capsule collection was presented in Milan in 2003 and he went on to present his first full collection of men’s and women’s wear at London Fashion Week in February 2004 where he has since shown every season. Having gained a strong international following over the years, he has shown his designs in Australia, Canada, France, Germany, Japan, Lithuania and Ukraine, and his clothes are available in retailers in Australia, China, Cyprus, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, Kuwait, Russia, Saudi Arabia, Turkey, Ukraine, UK, and USA.

- Makeup + styling by James Kershaw - Photographs + Digital Art by C Side Photography - Models Kelsey Kelsey A, Rachel A at PHABRIK model & artist management Lip Service What’s on every body’s lips this season? Anything they desire. Whether seeking a high gloss or a sophisticated satin finish, full coverage or a sheer tint, bold brights, pretty pastels or natural nudes, cosmetic houses have responded with a variety of products to enhance the smile. Clinique’s new Chubby Stick Intense Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm with mango and shea butter is a medium coverage companion to the brand’s hugely popular original sheer version. Jane Iredale’s PureGloss is newly reformulated and repackaged available in eighteen shades including seven of her best sellers from it’s previous incarnation. The house of Burberry took their cue from their spring/summer 2013 Burberry Prorsum runway presentation, which showed a glowing complexion, a nearly nude eye with emphasis on the lips. Burberry Beauty’s Lip Glow in Mallow Pink or Coral are certainly on trend. Clarins Paris introduces their first age-defying lipstick. Rouge Eclat`s formula, available in fifteen colours, contains a combination of mimosa, jojoba and sunflower pure plant waxes along with phytosphingosine which protects against dehydration, boosts collagen synthesis and fights the formation of fine lines. Look for the house’s limited edition Instant Smooth Crystal Lip Gel, available in late May to add a brilliant glow to your summer makeup. Smooth Operators A beautiful, luminous and smooth complexion is the goal for many and cosmetic houses have stepped up, offering a variety of options to achieve just that. Perfect and protect with Clinique’s Even Better Compact Make up SPF15 or Clarins’ BB Cream Skin Perfecting Cream SPF25.  Add a fresh healthy glow with the limited edition Lise Watier Pink Power blush and Pastel Power Illuminating Beads or Clarins’ limited edition Palette Eclat Face + Blush powder compact. Seeking a radiant sun-kissed glow? Clarins’ limited edition Splendours Summer Bronzing Compact will arrive in stores in May. OptimEYES Audacious brights, soft feminine pastels, and high contrast black and white shadows are prevalent this season. Extravagantly lined eyes are everywhere. The reason? Couture houses continuing fascination with the 50‘s and 60’s and many designers penchant for all things Asian. Achieved with liquid or pencil liners, and complemented with dense, full lush lashes achieved with multiple coats of mascara such as Clinique’s High Impact Waterproof mascara. Lids are swept with aqueous blues and greens from houses such as Jane Iredale and Lise Watier or black and white accented with Iris and taupe from Clarins. Making it easy to optimize your most expressive feature.

Angelo Seminara was first introduced into the world of hair at the young age of 11 in his hometown in Southern Italy. He started off as a trainee in a barbershop and then 5 years later made the move to Rome with London always in the back of his mind. Following a move to London in 1995 Angelo became Trevor Sorbie’s protégé and International Creative Director. He then chose to work on his freelance career and in 2011 became the Artistic Director for Davines. Davines is a natural based hair care line made in Parma Italy, that has been evolving into an international family owned brand that strives to balance beauty and sustainability in all that they do. Today the company is a cosmopolitan and pioneering company that offers hairdressers and their clients the opportunity to become part of a dynamic, multicultural community and unique brand lifestyle. Angelo’s refined taste, spirit of research and love for nature, is a perfect match to Davines’ philosophy of Sustainable Beauty. In his role Angelo Seminara interprets the Davines vision of beauty and directs their hair image, influencing techniques and style. Davines institutional collections bear his signature, he stars in numerous international shows, in addition to making his talent and experience available to the company for teaching courses and the development of new products. In Western Canada we are very fortunate to have the Western Canada Davines Session Team who as of late got to par take in hands on cutting and editorial styling with the Art Director himself. Currently the co-ordinator of the team Chantal Girard is collaborating with Tony Ricci to bring Angelo back to the West to do an editorial avant garde styling class at Ricci’s new Academy in Edmonton, along with a cutting class and Flamboyage color classes with Angelo’s colorist Edoardo Paludo, which will take place at various Edmonton based salons. May 25-29 members of The Western Canada Session Team will also watch Angelo at Davines’ World Wide Hair Tour in Paris. He will also be doing a North American tour in 2013 and stopping in Seattle, New York, Nashville, Toronto, and Minneapolis. Angelo has widely been considered a star of international hair styling with accolades such as British Hairdresser of the year in 2007, 2010, and most recent 2012. In 2011-2012 also won AIPP Grand Trophy, as a session hair stylist Angelo is also involved with at least 30 international shows in Paris, New York, London, and Milan. His work can also be seen in fashion magazines such as Harpers Bazaar, Vanity Fair, Italian Vogue, Mixte, Spanish Vogue, Turkish Vogue, Korean Vogue, Japanese Numero, Io Donna, Another Man, Sunday Times, Dazed and Confused,Grazia, Q Magazine, Mojo, Evening Standard, Hello Magazine. His latest exhibitions with Chloe and Selfridges are definitely something to see. For more on Angleo Seminara visit his web site @ www.angeloseminara.com

You knew the beating rhythm of a heart before you could breathe. We are flesh and bone, born to resonate and can feel sound. Your heart lives as the metronome for the rhythm inside you, and has evolved to synchronize with other living systems, and our earth as a whole. The intuitive creation of this abstract communication forms a flowing balance, creating a quiet, colossal symphony veiled by inexpressible colour and sound. The seemingly imperceptible mystery and intrigue of this connection can be felt and the vibrational interplay heard inside you, through music. By random and intelligent design, music is a collective manifestation that echoes the wonder of all life. Through this resonance and within the audible space of stillness, rhythmic solidarity is born through sound. We are made in and of music. It can be interpreted into sound by one being, and perceived as math by another. Likewise, music can be created mathematically, and relayed acoustically to others. It transcends and combines the disciplines of mathematics, astral and quantum physics to become a truly universal language. It expresses the wondrous relationships between the celestial bodies and our earth, the other planets, the sun, and solar systems. The shifting proportions, balances, distances, and vibrations can be measured both scientifically, and felt with the heart. The perspective that music is a living, breathing organism is acutely felt in the band PULSE, the master project of Martin Johann Kloppers. An accomplished Canadian cellist/composer/artist, he merges his lifetime of musicianship and artistic visionary exploration with a perplexing array of creative skills, including TIG-welding. He began this musical journey at age five, making his own wooden instruments and by age seven, he began pursuing private cello studies. By fifteen he was composing his own music. Martin was also a founding member and the electric cellist of the enigmatic ARIA award-winning group, ‘Feeding like Butterflies’. He earned his technical chops with a Bachelor of Music (cello performance) and is a self-taught drummer/percussionist. As a result, the visually stunning instrumentation and eclectically beautiful music is rich in depth and interest. PULSE combines musical influences from all over the world, film score, alternative, pop, and dance genres, all blended by the masterful instrumentation, timeless mood, and precise orchestral layering. The result evokes scenery, images, and stories only limited by the imagination of the listener. It’s best described as a soundtrack, encompassing nearly every genre, making it a truly universal experience. It alludes to the inexplicable beauty of the universe, its creatures, and the great abstract of unexplored wonder and brilliance. It is the imaginative vision of PULSE that makes it a truly timeless innovation; combining the future and past, and the mystical beauty of accidental order. The ‘Cellotaur’ & Global Drums Martin has handcrafted PULSE’s exquisite showcase instruments, which embody complete originality in artistic endeavour, beginning with the ‘Cellotaur’. The inspiration for its distinctive shape is based on a symphony of scientific, archaeological, and fantasy-based thinking, asking the question, ‘If cellos were living musical creatures, and we discovered their remains on a distant planet, what would those remains look like?’ It is a world-class sculpture, painting, and living musical instrument, and unlike traditional cellos, is not dependent on the body for sound-resonance, but truly electric. Its final shape is visually-striking; a delicate balance of feminine lines with a deliciously dark, macabre undertone. Its very existence changes our perception and notion of possibility in music, and the universe. In a similar fashion, the Global Drums symbolize the celestial bodies; planets, moons and suns, glowing orbs that all communicate through vibration in PULSE. They range in size, the largest being four feet in diameter and their unique lightweight TIG-welded design allows for overhead suspension, rotation, and movement. With built-in backlighting, the drums come alive with booming color and energy. They attune the vibrational connection of life, different times, and distant places. Many of the musical compositions and pieces performed in PULSE have over a hundred recorded cello or instrumental ‘layers’, expressing the complex link between the physical world, the imagined, and the infinite composition of music and science. Martin’s piece ‘Kududance’ is one example, and it emulates the creatures of Africa, his birthplace. Through this immense symphony of sound, PULSE blends a cacophony of electronics, signals, and waves and integrates musical inspiration from even the smallest creatures on our planet. Add to that the haunting and expressive vocals of Kirtan artist Sparrow Grace, and PULSE’s ‘world-electric’ genre is alive with the energy of our earth. PULSE is a masterful expression of the harmony and chaos of human experience becoming alive and present, and a communication with the universe.Every village has a drum. Every person has a voice. Every body has a PULSE. PULSE is beating at: pulseworld.ca

There are a multitude of reasons why music is important in our lives. It’s an expression of our triumphs and struggles; be they personal, social or political. Something to cry to, laugh to, head bang or cut a rug to. When a piece of music resonates powerfully with the listener, it can be incredibly comforting; almost as though the songwriter took the words right out of his or her mouth. For me, that is one of the main things that separate “the greats” from the mediocre artists. That ability to reassure the listener that they are not alone in their joy or strife. I believe that it is this innate talent that has given Blue Rodeo such longevity and a fan base that spans generations. When Blue Rodeo’s debut album Outskirts was released in 1987 I was just a kid of 7 years old. My eldest sister however, well into her teens, had become an avid fan of the band and I had been exposed to their music initially through her. (Thanks sis!) After years of connecting with each album they released, and singing along each time a Blue Rodeo song came on the radio, one thing that eluded me was why I had never made the effort to see one of their live shows. It was not due to lack of opportunity, as they’ve performed in Edmonton on numerous occasions. I’m a concert-goer so it hasn’t been due to an apathy towards live performances. I have always heard good things about Blue Rodeo’s live shows but for one excuse or another I had never made it to one. When Blue Rodeo announced that their 25th Anniversary Tour would include 2 nights in Edmonton at the Northern Alberta Jubilee Auditorium, I committed myself to finally go and see what I’ve been missing all these years. Blue Rodeo has a rich sound that really benefits from an establishment with good acoustics like “The Jube.” This being their anniversary tour, I knew the show would include many of my beloved favourites, and I was not disappointed. Popular hits like ‘Try’, ‘Hasn’t Hit Me Yet’, and ‘Lost Together’ found their way into the evening’s set. One thing that struck me was how well they performed. Not that I expected a butchered performance or anything, but to sound as good live (if not better) than on a produced recording is a true feat. Every high note hit, and each key in time, I was impressed. While many of their songs are melodic and harmonious, they aren’t without complexity, and it was just refreshing to see them show how skilfully they can play. Each band member had solos throughout the night, however the most notable were those of keyboardist Michael Boguski. This guy stole the show. You just felt it. Every key, pure soul. There was one instant when Greg Keelor wasn’t 100% thrilled with how a song was going and stopped mid-song stating “These people paid good money to be here. We can do better than that!” and started the song again from the beginning. Blue Rodeo has always had that likeable band personality; Simple everyday guys who care about what they do, want their fans to have a good time and leave feeling inspired in one way or another. This is one of the other things that appeals to people and something that you don’t get to see by simply listening to an album. You really get a feel for band dynamics and personality by watching members interact onstage. Watching Jim Cuddy and Greg Keelor was like watching two brothers who have seen it all and done it all together. There is an undeniable depth and chemistry to their relationship. I had previously mentioned that Blue Rodeo’s fan base spanned generations, and the audience that filled The Jubilee Auditorium definitely supported that notion. Teens, golden aged, and everyone in between, could be seen tapping their feet or singing along in the crowd. I think that is what happens when an artist’s range is so wide. Blue Rodeo is categorized as a country rock band, but their sound transcends the confines of just one or two musical genres. There are elements of blues, pop and soul scattered throughout their songs and performances. During the Edmonton show I attended, there was a moment during the song ‘After The Rain’ when I was quite certain Aretha Franklin had possessed Jim Cuddy onstage. It was amazing. The band even performed the old gospel song ‘Somebody Touched Me’. The rendition was so good it rivalled many of the artists that recorded the song back in the 60s. It is my guess that this ability to successfully cross musical genres and reach people in a wide range of demographics comes from a bona fide and deep love of all types of music, and a historical understanding of how each type came into being and why they were necessary; really relating to people of all backgrounds and with a different story. From the southern lady in the church choir, to the small town boy trying to find his way, Blue Rodeo has found away to understand, feel and give voice to so many. In fact, right before performing ‘Fools Like You’, the band took a moment to bring awareness to the Idle No More movement, once again showing the band’s unwavering dedication and support of those who are politically or socially disadvantaged. I left the January 9th concert feeling motivated, entertained, impressed and with the realization that before seeing Blue Rodeo live, I had no idea how powerful and important their place is in the Canadian music scene.