PHABRIK Magazine

Fall/Winter 2013

The World of Street Style

By Mark St. James - Marquis of Fashion

The world of street style has been growing at an exponential rate ever since Fashion Photographer Bill Cunningham published his candid shots of Greta Garbo in the New York Times back in 1978. What made those images different from a million other paparazzi shots, was that Bill had no idea it was Greta Garbo; he took the photo because of his appreciation of her style and was genuinely interested in the way her coat draped handsomely on her body. Bill Cunningham is not only a very successful columnist at the New York Times but his career was also made into a film in 2010. Richard Press decided to produce “Bill Cunningham New York” to showcase Bill as the founding father of the “street style” genre. Now, a photo of a woman in Mexico with a multi coloured poncho can go viral in hours and drive millions of hits a day across the internet. The smallest detail can be seen as beautiful or bizarre but the choice is in the eye of the photographer whether a look is interpreted as fashion or faux pas. Everyone is a graduate of the police academy of fashion when it comes to street style because, it’s encouraged. The only difference between watching people on the street and scrolling through piles of jpegs is that screaming out “That’s Nasty!” is really only acceptable in the comments of a blog. It is through street style that people can enhance their style diction and increase their appetite for new inventive ways to tie a turban or wrap a sarong. But aside from expressing your inner voyeuristic tendencies why are people so obsessed with street style? When a photo is taken of a model on the runway, you get to see a slice of what the designer feels is stylish for a particular season. From the hair, make-up, clothes, accessories, nail polish, runway, backdrop, and model, the image that is finally taken of the collection is so contrived that nothing is outside of what the designer had in mind when electing what you should see. Street style is a culmination of everything that is happening in the world at that moment (because the backdrop is the street in all its spontaneity) and the model is 100% untouched by another stylist or fashion enthusiast. This means that every person on the street is dressed the way they are because they chose to dress that way. And when a look really comes together and shines, the credit can go to that individual because they artfully crafted their look and knowingly or unknowingly inducted themselves into a world where the flick of a scarf in the wind or the properly placed glossy neon belt inspires someone thousands of kilometres away. Of course street style wouldn’t be what it is today without some of the front-liners who championed their DSLR’s and took advantage of the www. platform. Scott Schuman from The Sartorialist and Tommy Ton from Jak and Jill hit the scene with an eye for style and a passion for exposure. Not through traditional means but by means of their blogs which reach thousands of people a day and do their part to enhance the mainframe of personal style. When a street style photographer asks to take a quick shot of you, it’s flattering and exciting. You may be a little self conscious due to your lack of modelling experience or ever-so-slightly dusty patent leather wingtips; but at the end of the day the photog (Photography Blogger) chose you to be a page in their book titled people watching. Once upon a time people would sit on a patio and soak in the tragic and tremendous looks that happened across their paths, at times, the pickings would be slim while others there’d be more eye candy than a machine twirling glistening pulled taffy. Why take the gamble of waiting for gold to walk by when you can see the best of the best from Paris, New York, and London at the click of a button? This is what street style is, a compendium of where fashion has come from, where it’s going, and who’s wearing what.


Precious Powders

- By James Kershaw - Photographs + Digital Art by Supa-F Photography Precious Powders Cosmetic houses launch exclusive limited edition compacts each season providing the “must have it first” beauty shopper with something extra special. Clarins Paris’ Colour Accents gleaming gold compact houses a radiance enhancing blush+ powder combination imprinted with a modern geometric pattern.Yves Saint Laurent’s exquisite Palette Couture Powder can highlight, bronze or contour the face depending on skintone. Those seeking a shimmering visage for holiday festivities can check out Anna Sui Cosmetic’s Rose Face Powder compact when it arrives in stores late November. Conceal + Perfect Everybody craves beautiful, flawless skin. Featured here are just a few of the newest concealing and perfecting products launching this autumn. Pore Refining Solutions Instant Perfecting Makeup (matte finish and oil free) and Even Better Eyes Dark Circle Corrector (with it’s always cool, puffiness reducing applicator) from cosmetic giant Clinique, Zap&Hide Blemish Concealer from Jane Iredale not only camouflages but also treats with anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory agents and beneficial botanicals. Giorgio Armani Cosmetics launches Maestro Fusion Makeup Broad Spectrum SPF15, a foundation and BB cream hybrid that promises a natural looking flawless complexion launching at Holt Renfrew stores in October. Skincare and makeup powerhouse Clarins Paris offers Skin Illusion Loose Powder Foundation SPF10 which combines the coverage of a foundation with the lightness of a loose powder to give the illusion of a flawless, bare skin. Treat + Correct On occasion the complexion requires a more intense level of treatment and care. Environmental factors and stress can contribute to the loss of radiance and age the appearance of the skin, this is when cosmetic specialists turn to deep penetrating oils and serums for treatment and correction. Shu Uemura’s Tsuya Skin Youthful Radiance Generator was developed to promote the six key parameters for ideal or “tsuya” skin, smoothness, refined pores, translucence, even tone, fine texture and good colour. Clarins Paris’ new Hydra Quench Bi-Serum Intensif will restore a youthful radiance to dehydrated skin with omega 3 rich rich Inca Peanut oil, Hyaluronic Acid and fair-trade sourced Katafray Bark extract. Visible Difference Optimizing Skin Serum is part of Elizabeth Arden New York’s completely revitalized, reformulated and repackaged cosmetic range updated for the 21st century beauty consumer. Anna Sui (who has attained an almost cult status in Asian markets) offers Rose Treatment Oil which emits a subtle yet intoxicating rose scent. Reveal + Brighten Complexions always look their best with regular exfoliation. Dead skin removal allows the skin to absorb precious moisture and to maintain a youthful radiance. Featured on this page a couple of the best. Elizabeth Arden’s Visible Difference Peel & Reveal Revitalizing Mask and Nuxe Paris introduces their seven item alcohol and soap free cleansing range fortified with the beneficial properties of Damascena Rose. The Smell of Success Fragrance houses often launch new versions of successful scents. Featured here are three established scents now available in new forms and one making it’s debut this season. The wildly successful Aura by Swarovski is now available in a lighter Eau de Toilette version along with the originally launched Eau de Parfum, Burberry has also launched a lighter EDT version of their own uber successful Burberry Body scent. The house of Thierry Mugler reinterprets their hugely popular scent Alien with Alien Essence Absolue Eau de Parfum, a more intense version of the original. Boucheron, the world renowned jewelry house introduces Jaipur Bracelet Eau de Parfum, a woody floral inspired by the pink city of Rajasthan. Prime + Protect BB creams aka beauty balms and primers are two of the newer beauty aids on the market. The rapidly expanding range of products include new additions from Jane Iredale, one in each category. Smooth Affair Facial Primer & Brightener promises to even skin tone, minimize the appearance of pores all while increasing luminosity and providing easier makeup application with long wear. the line’s Glow Time Full Coverage Mineral BB Cream incorporates natural minerals that conceal imperfections,minimize pores, smooth and brighten the skin all with the benefits of a broad spectrum SPF 25 to protect from UV and free radical damage. Pure Finish Mineral Tinted Moisture Cream SPF15 by Elizabeth Arden provides sheer natural coverage with a radiant finish, their Visible Difference Good Morning Retexturizing Primer has a blend of vitamin A and botanical extracts which helps makeup to apply smoothly.


Going Forward Looking Back

- Photographs by Ernest at studio-e.ca - Hair by Pam Poch for Davines Artistic Team - Makeup by James Kershaw - Styled by Sandra Sing Fernandes - Models Dustin, Marie at Numa Models


Urban Renewal

- Photographs by Harry Fellows - Assisted by Ijfke Ridgley - Makeup and Hair by Andrew Colvin - Styled by Sandra Sing Fernandes - Filip L. Q Models NYC


Angelique Chemielewski | Carlie Wong | Nicole Campre

By Colleen Nuc

Designer Profile - Photographs by Pederson - Assisted by Corrie Side, Paulo Novales Caringal - Makeup by Nickol Walkemeyer and Amber Miller - Hair by Chantel Girard, Sandy Tang, Julian Scott, Simon De Nault, Melodie Savard for Davines - Models Janessa, Ashley T. Autumn, Beatrice, Emily, Mackenzie, Alex, Danielle, Linda at Mode Models - Shoes by Gravity Pope


Red Hot

- Photographs by Harry Fellows - Hair by Kozmo Hair NYC - Makeup by Andrew Colvin - Styled by Sandra Sing Fernandes - Alexandra M. Fusion Model Management NYC - Location Craig Van Den Brulle Gallery NYC - Photo Retouching by Elena Rott


Birds of a Feather

- Photographs by Amanda Bruns  at Jump - Styled by Brendan Cannon at Judy Casey - Makeup by Deborah Altizio at Agent Oliver - Hair by Andrea Wilson at Ford - Kit at Mc2


Beach + Howe Tower, Vancouver, by BIG Architects

By João Paulo Nunes

Copenhagen-based architecture studio BIG have unveiled designs for a structurally innovative residential tower which will become an elegant gateway to the city of Vancouver, Canada. Named after the site streets where it will be built, at 150 metres high, ‘Beach + Howe Tower’ will be the city’s fourth tallest building. The tower addresses the requirements of a challenging site that is divided by the Granville overpass, and the need to integrate high and low-rise structures into the odd-shaped lots that have been produced by the roads and the imposed city building codes. To address these criteria, and to keep a minimum 30-meter clearance of to the infrastructure, BIG have devised a 49-storey building with a slender base that widens to the top. A nine-storey podium accommodating offices, shops and restaurants is accessible by a public plaza under the large concrete supports of the overpass. Above this structure, and by resorting to a twisting structure, the tower’s 600 residential units manage to avoid noise and pollution while securing views of the ocean and surrounding mountains.


Releases, Reviews and Reverie

By Stacey Mullings

Shout Out Out Out Out Spanish Moss and Total Loss Normals Welcome Records After much anticipation on my part, and likely on the part of many Shout Out Out Out Out fans, the electro band’s third album, ‘Spanish Moss and Total Loss’ was released in July of this year, and as expected, it did not disappoint. When considering a band like Shout Out Out Out Out, expectations can be placed quite high. Time after time, they present a body of work that evidences just how passionate they are about their craft, and shows a level of expertise and artistry that’s pretty flooring. The highly skilled and complex instrumentation found in Spanish Moss and Total Loss is so fluid and cohesive that it produces melodic and accessible pieces which is undoubtedly a science in itself. A myriad of instruments including two drummers, four bassists, analog synths, Rhodes piano, baritone guitar and saxophone work in unison to construct an album that is pensive, relatable, thought provoking, and just really cool. The mood is one of profound reflection. Lead singer and multi-instrumentalist Nik Kozub stated “As on our previous two albums, I sing through an old analog vocoder, and lyrically I try to tackle my own demons, dreaming of a life where I can just stay on vacation forever, not having to deal with being broke all the time or be reminded of personal failures.” Despite the heavy lyrical content, listening to the album from start to finish does not feel like a depressing or taxing experience at all, more of a journey through truly inspired sound. Having seen Shout Out Out Out Out’s live performance on numerous occasions in different cities, I can say with conviction that they bring a certain explosive energy that ignites and already amped audience regardless of where they play. I think we can expect to see more great things from this band. Poolside Pacific Standard Time Day & Night Recordings Filip Nikolic and Jeffrey Paradise, also known as Poolside, introduced their brand of contemporary groove soul pop with the release of their debut album, ‘Pacific Standard Time’. The LA-based duo’s relaxed, feel-good sound was an instant party favourite over the summer. Pacific Standard Time sets the scene for a chilled out beach party over looking a California sunset and makes it virtually impossible to sit still while listening. Poolside’s rendition of Neil Young’s Harvest Moon is a whole new take on the folksy classic, placing it under a downtempo beat. Both Nikolic and Paradise had already earned the respect of music aficionados prior to teaming up together to create Poolside. They have worked with some notable artists in both the electro and indie rock genres. With Nikolic, playing with Ima Robot and touring with Junior Senior, and Paradise fronting The Calculators (members later went on to form The Rapture), they brought a strong fan base along with them when they decided to form Poolside. Being DJs of discriminating taste, Nikolic and Paradise put out a solid, 16-track album with the kind of music they would like to hear at a beach party or LA nightclub. As the last of the few dog days of summer come to a close, Pacific Standard Time is definitely one to pick up at the record store, drop the needle and kick back. Thesecond track, ‘Next To You’ is a personal favourite. If Poolside makes a video for this one, they must cast Pam Grier!)


Foster + Partners had unveiled plans for Marseille’s Old Port, Paris, France

By João Paulo Nunes

The practice is now celebrating having been granted ‘Permis de Construire’ for the Hermitage Plaza in Paris. The project will comprise two 320-metre-high buildings (the tallest mixed-use towers in Western Europe) and is expected to create a new community in Courbevoie, to the east of La Défense, that extends down to the river Seine with cafés, shops and a public plaza at its heart. The result of a close collaboration with the planning authorities (EPAD, the City of Courbevoie, Atelier de Paysage Urbain and Département de Hauts-de-Seine), the project is intended to inject life into the area east of La Défense by creating a sustainable, high-density community. The two towers accommodate a hotel, spa, panoramic apartments, offices and serviced apartments, as well as shops at the base. The buildings face one another at ground level. Open and permeable to encourage people to walk through the site, the towers enclose a public piazza (created by burying the existing busy road beneath a landscaped deck) lined with new cafés and restaurants. As they rise from an interlocking diamond-shaped plan, the towers turn outward to address views across Paris. The angle of the façade panels promotes self-shading while vents can be opened to draw fresh air inside, contributing to an environmental strategy that targets a BREEAM ‘excellent’ rating. At the same time, the diagrid structure uses less steel and emphasises the proportions of the towers.


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