PHABRIK Magazine

Fashion

EDITORIALS, TRENDS + DESIGNER PROFILES

Michael Kaye | Sid Neigum

Western Canadian Designers Making a Mark in New York Michael Kaye Michael Kaye, an Edmonton native, and a regular contributer to Western Canada Fashion Week,has turned his fashion flair into an extraordinary career. A significant player in the New York fashion scene, Kaye was back in Edmonton in 2010 to receive the Alumni Centenary Award for Volunteer Service from the University of Alberta, his alma mater. In turn to show his support to the university and students, he donated a one-of-a-kind tartan gown to the Department of Human Ecology. A graduate, cum laude, of the Fashion Institute in New York, Kaye has a list of awards and recognition that include The Fashion Group International’s “Rising Star Award” and the “Women’s Apparel Award” present in 2004 by hit series television show, Sex and the City Costumer, Patricia Field. “It is through my passion of cut and fabric that I am able to evolve the concept of the modern couture philosophy,” says Kaye. His creativity ranges from lace, beading, ruffles and bias tartans to sleek modern double-faced crepe dress and coat styles. Crowned the “Bonnie Prince of Tartan” by press and peers, for his love and creations with that marvellous material, Kaye’s creations have been showcased Sir Sean Connery’s “Dressed to Kilt” event since 2003. Kaye plans on creating 15 tartan gowns, one for each of the 10 Canadian provinces and three territories, and tour them across Canada. It was through Michael’s insistence that an official tartan was created for Canada’s newest territory, Nunavut. A Canadian who has certainly made his niche in the fashion industry for 21 years, Kaye’s view of couture is “an easy, modern, elegant lifestyle” that has been embraced by distinguished women across the globe. Sid Neigum Sid Neigum hails from Drayton Valley, Alberta. He studied fashion design at Marvel College, taking his first step into notoriety was in 2009 where he won the “Emerging Designer Award” at the inaugural edition of Western Canada Fashion Week. Neigum created a dress entirely out of recycled tires for WCFW’s Phabrikated for the Arts competition. He gained notoriety and press coverage for his unique designs that eventually led to an internship with renowned designer Yigal Azrouel in New York City. Currently making his home in New York, Neigum was recently accepted at the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology. His self-described design philosophy is “masculine, modern and unconventional.” The spirit of Neigum’s designs is bold, dark and innovative. Neigum, launched at Western Canada Fashion Week continues to be supported by the Canadian fashion industry, his participation at Vancouver Fashion Week and LG Fashion Week keeps him at the forfront of emerging design talent. Neigum


Todd Lynn: Praising the Children of the Revolution

BY JOÃO PAULO NUNES

On most occasions, the first music notes of a fashion runway show set the tone for the collection that ensues. In Todd Lynn’s display for his Autumn/Winter 2011/12 collection at London Fashion Week, one had to wait until the final parade of models to the sound of T. Rex’s song “The Children of the Revolution” to understand how the designer intended his message to be summed up by the audience. After all, this was a song that, when it was released 40 years ago, was popular with teenagers while some elements of society regarded it as essentially pro-communist propaganda. In the expanding luxury market propelled by affluent consumers in emerging post-communist economies, Lynn’s established reputation for designing leather and fur garments rides the zeitgeist wave of the successful process of merging creativity and profit. Lynn has had a penchant for leather and fur for quite a while, and his latest designs using these materials in shades of beige, black, grey and maroon are no exception. The collection’s repetitive examples of footwear and tailoring (as evidenced in the numerous trousers with draped fabric over pockets, dresses with asymmetric sleeves, and several high-necked, zipped up jackets) contrasted with some original designs that are worth noting. In fact, despite relying on the reiteration of commercially safe designs, Lynn’s talent was at its strongest in the elegant high-top trainers for men, deconstructed garments with pleated fabrics, overcoats fastened diagonally, and stylish zipped high gloves. Having developed an image as a designer of rock and roll cool garnered over years of making clothes for artists in the music industry, Lynn may see 2011 as the year that marks a turning point in his career. In truth, this is not a collection for the children of the revolution. These are garments for the former rebellious children who have grown and now turn to designers like Lynn for items of clothing that exude luxury and creativity.


Framework


In Her Shoes: A 21st Century Love Story

By Jacqueline Parrish

A wise woman once said “You never truly know someone until you have walked a mile in their shoes” while a simple man stated “There’s an awful lot you can tell about a person by their shoes”. Taken literally, both quotes essentially extol the same wisdom; pretty or practical, comfortable or stylish, a person’s footwear says a lot about them. I don’t own a pair of flip-flops; no sneakers, hiking boots, Crocs or kitten heels, the comfiest footwear I possess happens to be a ratted pair of fuzzy gray, bedazzled to a Swarovski-sheen slippers. I live for heels (well, live in them at the very least). My obsession, while not quite as serious as famed shoe-whore Imelda Marcos’, borders on the addiction; I’ve had a longer relationship with some of my stilettos than I have had with a man. Repeatedly ignoring the practicality of an item while wielding my weapon of choice (Visa) at the nearest cashier, I’ve yet to experience buyers’ remorse. I came close this past week. A ten day visit to my hometown saw me fending for myself with a monstrous, silver rag-top Jeep; it had me cursing my beloved purple platforms with the first turn of the ignition. Driving never was one of my strengths; road rage and an innate inability to turn left not the least of my vehicular disabilities. The addition of a standard transmission only served as a hindrance in my quest for freedom. Going from a city of 5.5 million -where 20,000 alone reside in my condo complex- to an entire town comprised of 20,000 people. From AstroTurf and concrete, where taxis are the most common vehicle on the road to mountains, and bushes, one main street where you would be hard-pressed to hail anything resembling a cab. The obvious solution to my ‘stalling and –subsequent- whiplash’ problem would have been to swap out my skyscraper shoes for something flat and functional, but - proving once again that I can oftentimes be just as stubborn as I am absurd- not once did that ever enter into my mind as an option. So what, exactly, does this say about me? Sashaying down the route of narcissism, a moment’s reflection has led me to the seemingly pathetic and -not altogether surprising- realization that high heels have become my security blanket. For some people, it’s hair, others, stuffed animals, for me, it’s shoes. I don’t wear them for men, I don’t wear them for women; I wear them for me. When slipping my feet into my favorite pair of platforms, I am also slipping on my persona. I am slipping on a self-assured confidence that gives me a fierce –not false- sense of empowerment. I can take over the world one strong-willed step at a time. I would never be so shallow as to say that ‘shoes make the person’, but while they don’t define who you are, they can certainly have an impact on how you feel. So while a person might judge my preference in ped-wear, I will continue to happily strut, tall and confident down the sidewalk in pretty but impractical footwear.


Short Cuts

- Photographs by Michael Tang - Hair by A.J. Jomha/Sarah Pearson for Lines & Legends - Makeup by James Kershaw- Metal Sculpture by Peter Hyde - Portrait Bust of Alena by Annique Comeau - Location The Faculty of Fine Arts Sculpture Studio


The 00’s A Decade in Fashion

By André DeVeaux

So these last ten years have flown by like clockwork we’ve had our up’s and we’ve had our downs, but what men fashion trends have stood the test of decadism, and what trends have we left to rot in the closet of yesteryear, Let’s take a tip back down memory lane. Key Items: Oversized T-shirt’s/Pants/ Jackets, excessive diamante jewellery, Velour, Basketball Sneakers. R.I.P: 2000 -2004 The Suit Moment This follow up to Bling Bling urged the metrosexual man for some type of return to sophistication, gone were the oversized pieces in turn for sleeker, true to fit items such as Dior Homme blazers, super skinny ties and slim fit pants. Key Items: Fitted blazers, skinny ties, and Suit trousers or slim-fit pants with White Tennis sneakers or leather shoes. R.I.P: Although this trend has adapted itself into current trends its heyday was from 2004-2006. Eighties Revival: Mini Trends 2007- 2010 Old Skool Once again guys taking back old hip-hop influences donning items such as Hi-top trainers, nerdy glasses and Varsity jackets along with other retro inspired pieces to give there outfit some extra punch. Key Items: Hi-Top Sneakers, Paint box/ Neon Acid Coloured Tops or Pants, Slim/Skinny Fit Jeans, Gold Jewellery, Military Jackets, Aztec/ Mosaic prints, and retro pieces inspired by items of the eighties. Grandpa Sleek A style inspired by the so called “Geeks” of the eighties but also with clear influences that lead back to traditional imagery of grandfathers. This trend involves taking classic items such as bow ties and braces but remixing them with today’s fashions to create a timeless vintage look. Key Items: Vintage blazers, Grandpa Slippers, cardigans, chunky knitwear, bow ties, braces, big retro reading glasses. Of course these trends are simply a blueprint to go by today’s fashion savvy men are no longer sucked into fads and fast turnover trends instead they yearn for individuality and looks that take inspiration from things other than celebrity. With all that these are the things to look out for this spring: Heavy usage of Denim – Reworking classic looks The return of Military styles – Well Tailored and sharp detailing Classic pieces - Work sports looks with formalwear bringing life back to old pieces. Neutral Colours – Beiges, Pastel Greens, Greys, these are working their way back from Jackets to cargo pants. New Shapes – Don’t be afraid to experiment with new shapes whether it be a coat or a pair of pants. Layering – play with different textures to bring depth to outfits. Other trends are bubbling under also but these seem to be the most promising to last for now. Quality Over Quantity Lastly a stylist’s tip: Go with a theme then begin to work your outfit around it, always start with one item and work from there. Shoes or pants are always a good place to being. Remember work the vision don’t let the vision work you.


2010 Runway Report

By Jacqueline Parrish

The 2010 RTW Runway Trends and Highlights Emerging from the multifarious mix of designers and their S/S ’10 RTW collections, were several unmistakable patterns. Collectively ditching the heavily tailored, overly-stiff garments of seasons past and erring on the side of femininity, designers focused on a softer silhouette. While adhering to the old “less is more” adage, celebrated design houses created wardrobe mainstays with minutely detailed, simple, stylish, garments. Making a statement about the future of humanity, Alexander McQueen presented an innovative runway show and collection that stole the spotlight. A particular shoe design pushed the artistic envelope, leaving a worldwide audience split between awe and ugh. Minimalist a la Mode At Givenchy, Celine and Yves Saint Laurent, the designers gave an expertly executed visual exposé centered on minimalism; a limited color palette combined with a smattering of small design details made for classic garments that will stand the test of time in ones wardrobe. Favoring simple blacks, whites and beiges, the designs were given an added element of interest through the various pairings of differently textured and sheened fabrics of the same color. At Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci paired together contrasting combinations of inky blacks and stark whites; visually striking looks that come off as effortlessly chic. Beautiful Bows In accordance with this season’s widespread trend of all that is girly, there was a veritable explosion of bows of every size spilling onto the runways. Moschino, Valentino, Andrew Gn and Marc by Marc Jacobs are just a few of the numerous designers that incorporated the ultra-feminine detailing onto everything from garments to headpieces. From the small and demure to the gigantic and overwhelming, there was scarcely a prêt-a-port show for S/S ‘10 that did not feature the coquettish symbol of femininity. Grecian Goddess Yards of draped, sheer and lightweight, fabrics made for a softer, flirtier silhouette on the runways this spring. Stand out collections from last fall such as Balenciaga’s beautifully draped drop-waist skirts- served as inspiration for design houses that included Lanvin, Dries Van Noten and Elie Saab. Swathed in layers of flowing silk, satin and chiffon, the models floated down the runways in Romanesque gowns, skirts and tops; a much different look from the predominantly architectural designs of last season. Futuristic-Fashion Nirvana One standout collection, deserving of a paragraph all to itself, was the highly imaginative, futuristic, Atlantis-inspired showing from Alexander McQueen. Featuring an electrifying stage show that included digitally printed, reptilian-patterned dresses, video of a naked Raquel Zimmerman covered in writhing snakes, the debut of Lady Gaga’s new single, and live online-streaming; it made for an unforgettable experience. Claw Couture It would be impossible to write about McQueen’s S/S ’10 line without touching on one of the most talked about elements of his collection; the deformed, nine inch platforms that gave the models the entertaining appearance of having legs that ended in enormous crab-claws. After the initial shock of watching something so avant-garde traipse down the runway, it is easy for one to appreciate the brilliant concept behind the cunningly crafted, visually captivating footwear. While personally itching to get my hands on a pair, I’m certain that the less artfully-inclined will find these monstrous shoes to be much the opposite of desirable.


©2013 PHABRIK Magazine