Women's Footwear Trends The trend for fall/winter 2013 women’s footwear is all about nostalgia and time capsules. The 90’s continue to inspire this season’s hottest looks. Grunge returns, this time mixed with a twist of 70’s punk. The boot continues as a staple of the season, from ankle to over the knee. Chunky heels, heavy metal hardware, exotic animal prints and fur embel lishments giving them varying looks. A resurgence of 40’s style mary janes and T- strap pumps decorated embossed with fur porn poms. Modern touches, such as exposed zips, pointed toes, chunky heels, straps and buckles. Colours ran the gamut from classic black and brown, the surprise of white to a range of this season ‘s hottest hues such as teal, forest green, and oxblood. Men's Footwear Trends Mens footwear continued its evolution Classic shapes such as the lace up dress shoes the casual high top sneak and the workboot are updated with novel fabrics and colours. Metal hardware and patent finish embossed leathers added interest. Even the classic evening slipper was brought forward with animal print finishes and vivid hue, usually paired up with evening attire or a favorite smoking jacket, the modern fashion avatar will mate them his fave denim. Metal hardware and patent finish embossed leathers added interest.

The world of street style has been growing at an exponential rate ever since Fashion Photographer Bill Cunningham published his candid shots of Greta Garbo in the New York Times back in 1978. What made those images different from a million other paparazzi shots, was that Bill had no idea it was Greta Garbo; he took the photo because of his appreciation of her style and was genuinely interested in the way her coat draped handsomely on her body. Bill Cunningham is not only a very successful columnist at the New York Times but his career was also made into a film in 2010. Richard Press decided to produce “Bill Cunningham New York” to showcase Bill as the founding father of the “street style” genre. Now, a photo of a woman in Mexico with a multi coloured poncho can go viral in hours and drive millions of hits a day across the internet. The smallest detail can be seen as beautiful or bizarre but the choice is in the eye of the photographer whether a look is interpreted as fashion or faux pas. Everyone is a graduate of the police academy of fashion when it comes to street style because, it’s encouraged. The only difference between watching people on the street and scrolling through piles of jpegs is that screaming out “That’s Nasty!” is really only acceptable in the comments of a blog. It is through street style that people can enhance their style diction and increase their appetite for new inventive ways to tie a turban or wrap a sarong. But aside from expressing your inner voyeuristic tendencies why are people so obsessed with street style? When a photo is taken of a model on the runway, you get to see a slice of what the designer feels is stylish for a particular season. From the hair, make-up, clothes, accessories, nail polish, runway, backdrop, and model, the image that is finally taken of the collection is so contrived that nothing is outside of what the designer had in mind when electing what you should see. Street style is a culmination of everything that is happening in the world at that moment (because the backdrop is the street in all its spontaneity) and the model is 100% untouched by another stylist or fashion enthusiast. This means that every person on the street is dressed the way they are because they chose to dress that way. And when a look really comes together and shines, the credit can go to that individual because they artfully crafted their look and knowingly or unknowingly inducted themselves into a world where the flick of a scarf in the wind or the properly placed glossy neon belt inspires someone thousands of kilometres away. Of course street style wouldn’t be what it is today without some of the front-liners who championed their DSLR’s and took advantage of the www. platform. Scott Schuman from The Sartorialist and Tommy Ton from Jak and Jill hit the scene with an eye for style and a passion for exposure. Not through traditional means but by means of their blogs which reach thousands of people a day and do their part to enhance the mainframe of personal style. When a street style photographer asks to take a quick shot of you, it’s flattering and exciting. You may be a little self conscious due to your lack of modelling experience or ever-so-slightly dusty patent leather wingtips; but at the end of the day the photog (Photography Blogger) chose you to be a page in their book titled people watching. Once upon a time people would sit on a patio and soak in the tragic and tremendous looks that happened across their paths, at times, the pickings would be slim while others there’d be more eye candy than a machine twirling glistening pulled taffy. Why take the gamble of waiting for gold to walk by when you can see the best of the best from Paris, New York, and London at the click of a button? This is what street style is, a compendium of where fashion has come from, where it’s going, and who’s wearing what.

For his Autumn/Winter 2013 menswear collection, French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier decided to reinterpret traditional menswear by deconstructing conventional sartorial tropes through an amalgamation process. The end result was an extremely accomplished collection of original designs that still allowed for very flattering masculine silhouettes. Using fabrics such as luxurious wools and leather in a palette of black, grey, white, camel, red and emerald, Gaultier created a range of successful garments that included oversized raincoats with dropped shoulders, suits that juxtaposed paneled fabrics, thick knitwear, long leather gloves and high-waisted pleated pants. However, it was the witty deconstruction of menswear that fused tradition with experimentation that caught our attention at Phabrik. This was particularly effective in suit blazers that came cropped or reinvented in shapes that conjured bomber jackets, pinstripe trousers with pleated skirt applications, jumpsuit suits, cropped shirts, and stunning belted overcoats with leather applications that blended traditional overcoat shapes with those of biker jackets.

Brazilian beachwear label Blue Man unveiled its Spring/Summer 2014 collection in the lush and luxurious surroundings of Palácio São Clemente in the Botafogo neighbourhood of Rio de Janeiro during Fashion Rio on 16 April 2013. The venue for the runway show, a palace that was built in the eighteenth century as the residency of a Portuguese aristocratic family and now houses the Portuguese consulate, is a veritable majestic example of the Tropical Baroque aesthetic and a most adroit setting for Blue Man’s seductive collection. Under the creative direction of Thomaz and Sharon Azulay (whose father David Azulay founded the label in the early 1970s by selling the original – and now iconic – side-tied bikini), the collection explored the combination of typically Brazilian fauna and flora with Baroque ornaments found in Portuguese tiles and palace architecture as a reflection of the historical period when the Portuguese court settled in Brazil to escape the Napoleonic invasions and made Rio de Janeiro the capital of the empire. The result achieved by Blue Man was an exciting range of swimwear, beachwear, footwear and accessories in bright colours and detailed patterns that, while combining Rio urban beach culture and historical references, will undoubtedly prove to become popular when they hit the stores later in the year. For Spring/Summer 2014, Blue Man promises fluid pieces in transparent silk for lounging on the beach or by the pool that contrast with structured shoulder and waist lines in bathing suits, shirts and dresses. The influence of Hawaiian surf prints and the brand’s seminal relaxed approach to swimwear can be noticed in frayed denim bikinis and in bodysuits with vivid colours and patterns. And to anchor the lighter fabrics and cheerful designs, Lycra, denim and neoprene provide a successful balance to a collection that had the audience delirious and looking forward to another hot Rio Summer.

Fur: A vintage feel—but with a modern edge Coats are a winter mainstay, this season many of them are oversized with full voluminous cuffs. It’s all part of a trend toward architectural cuts in clothing. Fur coats and jackets made the biggest comeback this year. Many of the silhouettes featured flared skirts and wide belts reminiscent of couture favorites from bygone eras. Paring down the silhouette using coarse furs for elegant wear was often associated with Fendi in the past. Fendi is to fur as Ferrari is to cars. Yet given current concerns about animal rights, the brand has moved from the lavish fur coats that were all the rage in the 1980s to a more discreet way of interpreting fur. Fur appeared as inserts in skirts or dresses, or sheared and fashioned into cozy, understated jackets. Long haired furs, such as goat, also appeared on other runways during Milan’s preview showings. DSquared2 Both the masculine and feminine sides of the DSquared2 label were shouting other for attention. Pencil skirts paired with belted jackets, one with layered, architectural lapels. But for evening, the mood was more speak-easy slinky with silky dresses with an asymmetrical, trailing feather boa hemline or a fur stole. Many designers featured fur at this season of preview shows, including Roberto Cavalli who used it mainly to trim the hoods of his winter parkas. That was enough to draw the wrath of a small group of animal rights activists who disrupted the show holding up signs in Italian saying, “Your fashion is our death,” until they were forcibly removed. Prada Long luxurious mink coats had ample collars and cuffs like the ones Hollywood royalty wore during the 1950s. Coats have extra wide cuffs and are often belted at the waist and flared toward the bottom.

Designer Profile - Photographs by Bokehccino Project at Western Canada Fashion Week

For his womenswear collection for Spring/Summer 2013, shown as part of London Fashion Week’s official calendar on 14 September 2012, Jean-Pierre Braganza unveiled a range of clothes that resulted from an enriching collaboration with Ukranian artist Zinaida Lihacheva. Prints created by Lihacheva that explored organic forms in vivid colours contrasted with the sharp angularities, intricate tailoring, and sensual draping that Braganza has been known for. Born in London to an Irish mother and Asian father, Jean-Pierre Braganza moved to Canada at an early age. He grew up in Montreal and Toronto, and studied Fine Arts before realising that fashion was his true calling. After a stint studying Fashion, Braganza moved to London where he was accepted directly into the second year of the Womenswear programme at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. Upon graduating in 2002 with a ‘First’ (the top grade in the UK system) in the main area of study, his talent was rewarded with the Colin Barns award for illustration. During his days at Central Saint Martins, Braganza developed his skills while working with British avant-garde fashion designer Robert Cary-Williams. This experience provided the training needed to understand the deconstructive processes of fashion and to develop the dedication required for working with hard materials such as leather. After graduation, he joined Roland Mouret where he honed his tailoring skills and learned an appreciation for detail. His initial capsule collection was presented in Milan in 2003 and he went on to present his first full collection of men’s and women’s wear at London Fashion Week in February 2004 where he has since shown every season. Having gained a strong international following over the years, he has shown his designs in Australia, Canada, France, Germany, Japan, Lithuania and Ukraine, and his clothes are available in retailers in Australia, China, Cyprus, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, Kuwait, Russia, Saudi Arabia, Turkey, Ukraine, UK, and USA.

Since the explosion of bloggers, street style and the commercialization of fashion week, wearing outlandish ensembles and letting your freak flag fly has never been so popular. With fashion’s elite wearing complete runway looks out and about and some bloggers becoming celebrities because of their almost alien looking wardrobes, everyone wants a piece of the attention pie. The need to be photographed and popularized has had an interesting effect on fashion weeks around the world especially outside the tents and venues of the years most anticipated shows. It’s become something of a three ring circus with trigger happy photo bloggers and wack-a-doo clothing which may ultimately be revolutionizing the ways in which designers and consumers find inspiration in dressing themselves or creating new collections. Or… they’re just giving us all a good laugh at their expense. Can dressing over the top be an expression of art and self through fashion? Or is it a cheap thrill to dress up in peculiar manner and give circus performers a run for their money? A tall man in heels walks slowly down what is now known as the “catwalk” in Lincoln Center leading up to the entrance of Mercedes-Benz fashion week wearing a long cream colored cape and matching suit. Sitting atop his head is a hat that resembles a warrior’s helmet molded to his head (in matching cream of course) with a perpendicular fin shooting out the top… The epitome of ridiculousness and the street style photographers are eating it up. He lingers around marble pillars and pretends to text someone giving the photographers the shots they crave. This is around 11:00 A.M. Around 7:00 P.M. the spectacle has somehow made his way into the tents and is posing with celebrities and such. Someone asks him if he saw any shows today… “No” he replies. His purpose at MBFW was to get photographed and chat with people… how interesting. Though the outfit matched in its material and theme, the look was utterly preposterous and lacked any element of style or relevant fashion that would have made it acceptable to wear to an event up to and including fashion week. It’s not enough to wear something crazy and act like a tart when attending a fashion show, or something of the like. I’d of thought it common sense to make absolutely sure that the outfit you’re wearing compliments your style, is relevant to the event in some way, or represent how you want to be perceived by the world. You may even wish to include a statement regarding where you think fashion is going or what is trending through your accessories and shoe choices. Gazing at the gaspalicious looks can be intriguing and fun, but the truth is, it is coming to a point where only the craziest looks are being shot while the style forward outfits are being ignored. So who’s to blame? We can’t simply blame the bloggers, fashion victims who mean well, or flippant writers in dramatic attire; nor can we solely point the finger at people who loiter in and around the tents. Instead, we have to take a look at fashion as a whole and determine who or what is perpetuating this. Looking at many of fashion’s most influential people from days gone by including Isabella Blow, Anna Piaggi, and Alexander McQueen we can see that they were all influencers for intense fashion and often times wore or created the most inspirational pieces and pulled them off with wit and precision. Are they to blame for setting the stage for the circus? No, definitely not. Their looks were always refined and told a story. Also, they were always perfectly in sync with the wearers’ personality. They will never be forgotten, but not because they looked silly or outlandish, because their style simply transcended modern conventional dressing. Aside from fashion personalities and designers, editors of many of the world’s biggest and most influential fashion magazines are also spectacles at the best of times including Anna Dello Russo from Vogue Nippon and Giovanna Battaglia of L‘Uomo Vogue. Having professionals dressed in wild and wonderful clothing (many styled and dressed exactly as they appear on the runway) only serves to publicize looks from a certain collection and push the reach of fashion even further. Fact is, stealing the lime light can be pulled off by abiding these simple rules: Rule 1: Dress for yourself. Rule 2: Dress in a way that represents your sense of style rather than what your perception of what could be seen as stylish. Rule 3: Trends are great, but be sure they complement you rather than override the focus of your look. Rule 4: Don’t dress like Lady Gaga… there’s only one Mother Monster. Rule number 4 also applies to Iris Apfel, Daphne Guinness, and Adam Lambert. To wrap this up, it’s important to look, dress, and act exactly how you are. Pretending to be famous or weird or anything else for attention is ultimately folly and will leave you on the comical side of the fashion front liners. Be a trooper and push your boundaries of fashion by wearing a well put together outfit instead of playing dress up and end up looking like a clown.