PHABRIK Magazine

Beauty

Beauty, Hair + Health

Homme Based

- Model: Kent - Styling: James Kershaw - Photography/Digital art: Studio-e.ca Men’s skincare has come a long way in the past decade and so have the attitudes men have concerning the care of their skin. The stigma surrounding men that once used skin preparations as overtly narcissistic, vain beings with unadulterated egos has been replaced with one of a informed man concerned with health, vitality and well-being. Looking and feeling good in your skin is no longer just the privilege of women. Major cosmetic houses on both sides of the globe have extensive lines based on the special needs of a man’s skin. A male’s skin is often thicker, oilier and can have a coarser appearance than his female counterparts. All issues are now addressed, protection from the elements, hydration, post shaving calming and soothing of the skin. Zone specific areas such as the eyes have there own unique set of problems and solutions. Clinique Skin Supplies For Men’s new Anti-fatigue Cooling Eye Gel roll on revitalizes,and brightens while combating puffiness and dark circles. ClarinsMen Age Control Line Control Eye Balm revitalizes, lifts and firms, and reduces puffiness ideal for the more mature male. Exfoliation is key to a clear glowing complexion, Clinique Skin Supplies For Men’s Face Scrub prepares the skin for shaving, it removes dead skin and oil buildup, lifts the beard to reduce ingrown hair development. ClarinsMen new Exfoliating Cleanser (June availability) deep cleanses, purifies and refines the skin with natural lava powder, natural micro beads and micro spheres of salicylic acid while eliminating toxins that can dull the complexion. Comfort Zone MANSPAce Hydra Performer After-Shave Restoring Hydrator replenishes lost moisture due to shaving restoring the skin’s natural defenses.


Orange Crush | Haute Chocolate | The Ultra-Violets

- Makeup + styling by James Kershaw - Photographs + Digital Art by studio-e.ca Orange Crush Cosmetic houses are enamored with the colour orange this season. As a result, a wide array of beauty products are available in varying intensities of this sun-kissed hue. Bold, intense, colour saturated items scream CHIC!, while sheer lightly pigmented products whisper the message. This spring every feature from eyes, cheeks, lips, even nails can be dressed in this citrusy colour. Could it be love? Maybe. Or just a crush. Haute Chocolate Cosmetic houses always have an ample supply of rich chocolaty hues available. This spring they are an ideal contrast to the season’s acid bright and pretty pastel garments and the perfect compliment to the ubiquitous ivory, beige and camel items in store each spring. Bobbi Brown’s Rich Brown matte and Chocolate Shimmer Wash eye shadows accessorized with Clinique’s Intense Chocolate Quickliner for Eyes creates a warm smoky eye. Jane Iredale’s Chemistry In Touch Blush imparts a dewy pink chocolate gleam to the cheeks with a formula enriched with cocoa extract that emits an intoxicating chocolate scent. Layer Clarins’ Chocolate lip liner pencil with their new Gloss Prodige in Chocolate for a sexy deep nude mouth. A dark lacquered manicure is de rigueur, OPI’s "Suzy Says Da!" would be ideal or "Chocolate Moose" for those seeking something more subtle. The Ultra-Violets Whether you seek a 1950’s inspired ultra-feminine, classic look or an avant-garde, futuristic one, this bluish purple is one of the season’s coolest colours for fashion and beauty. Violet can be found in every category of cosmetic in a wide variety of finishes and intensities. Eyes are accentuated with shimmer and matte shadows (Clarins), and elongated with pencil, cream or liquid liners (Clinique). Cheeks radiate an ethereal lavender glow (Yves Saint Laurent). Whether you crave lips of lavender or a pout of purple, there is a wide range of items available to achieve the desired effect such as lip plumpers (Jane Iredale), glosses (Clarins), lipstick/gloss/balm hybrids (Bodyography, Clinique). Nail this season’s chicest look with amethyst hued polishes (SpaRitual, OPI)


All Bases Covered

- Art direction by James Kershaw - Photographs + Digital Art by studio-e.ca Choosing the correct foundation is crucial for a successful makeup application. An incorrect choice can throw off the entire look. Skin type, colour, tone, the amount of coverage desired and the appropriate fInish all need to be addressed. Cosmetic houses have responded by offering a variety of foundation types, in an wide range of colours. Clinique’s new Stay Matte Oil Free Makeup will be available in 20 shades when it arrives in stores in May, their Even Better Concealer, launching in April, will come in twelve shades. Jane Iredale offers two dozen skin perfecting colour options for their mineral powder Pure Pressed Base. Clarins’ Ever Matte Oil Free Makeup SPF15 was recently introduced into the marketplace with a companion Ever Matte Shine Control Mineral Powder Compact, ideal for those wanting a long wearing shine free finish. The house’s aptly named Instant Light Brush On Perfector imparts a moist, light reflective finish around the dry, delicate and often dark under eye area. It’s never been easier to ensure that all your beauty bases are covered.


Molten Metal

- Makeup by James Kershaw for Jane Iredale - Photographs by Ernest at studio-e.ca - Model Paula B. Beauty is luminous this season, embellished with an array of shimmering metallics. Ignite your look, day or evening with reflective metal finish cosmetics in a variety of textures. Molten metal finish liquid eye liners and nail lacquers, creamy metallic highlighter pencils and glistening cream shadows should be on every one’s "gilty pleasure" list this fall.


Pigment of the Imagination

- By James Kershaw - Photography: Ernest at Studio-e.ca The avid beauty connoisseur’s ‘’must haves’’ list this season will include skin perfecting and protecting items such as Clinique’s new Moisture Surge Tinted Moisturizer SPF15 or Lise Watier’s Teint Parfait Flawless Complexion Foundation and Concealer Duo. The fashion and beauty world is definitely having a colour moment this season, so the next items on the list should include any cosmetic items drenched in colour. Lise Watier’s Duo Glam Rouge Infini is a long wear two part lip system that starts with a water based liquid lip stain followed with a pigment rich lipstick, available in a range of brights, pastels and neutrals, the two products may be used separately or together. This season, items to brighten both eyes and cheeks are available in every hue one can imagine. Check out Clarin’s new Blush Prodige Illuminating Cheek colour available in six skin flattering shades or their limited edition Neo Pastels Eye Colour & Liner Palette which includes a range of soft neutral and bright shadows paired with a rich and intense cream liner. Complete your list with one of the new innovations in mascara. Clinique introduces Bottom Lash Mascara, a long wear formula applied with a specially designed micro-mini brush that will ensure you find every one of those hard to find delicate lower lashes.  


Unmasking a Century of Beauty

- Make up / concept : James Kershaw - Photography / Digital Art: Ernest at Studio-e.ca The 20th century was an era of dramatic and rapid change in the world of beauty. Phabrik Beauty looks at five decades, referencing four from the history books and hypothesizing what might occur in the decade ahead. The eras chosen were those deemed to have produced the most iconic and easily identifiable beauty trends. The worlds of art and cinema have always had great influence on what was determined to be modern and attractive in each era. The 1920s saw the rise of screen stars as beauty icons. Clara Bow, Gloria Swanson and Greta Garbo were the great beauties of the day and all wore the dramatically thin, arched and penciled brow, the “beauty” mark, and the “cupids bow” lip. Beauty pioneers like Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein appeared on the scene and innovations such as the powder compact, powder rouge, nail lacquer and long wear lipsticks were first introduced during this time. Magazines, movies and that new technology...television...all spread the word of new beauty ideals to the masses during the 1950s. Femme Fatales like Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren wore the full, painted brow, the emphatically elongated liquid liner with false lashes, the bright red lip, and the beauty mark also made a return engagement. Helena Rubinstein developed the first modern mascara wand in 1957. The Swinging 60s was truly THE decade of change with popular culture playing an important role in shaping what was considered modern and attractive. The “British Invasion” not only referred to the music scene but also to the many influential fashion and beauty icons that came from the region. Vidal Sassoon’s cutting edge, revolutionary cuts, and Mary Quant’s development of the miniskirt, hot pants and her own line of cosmetics created worldwide excitement. The most famous model in the world at that time also hailed from the region, Twiggy, the 5’6’’, 90 pound waif took the fashion world by storm. Twiggy’s petite heart shaped face, was dominated by huge eyes made even more expressive with false lashes, inky eye liner and an array of shimmering pastel eye shadows paired with a pale glossy pout. The1970s had its own versions of what was considered beautiful. As a reaction to the natural, make up free hippy vibe of the late 60s that overlapped into the early seventies, the latter part of the decade saw a rather aggressive, strong make up look develop. Disco and punk, although wildly different, both had profound effects on beauty culture. Cheeks were emblazoned with slashes of colour often combined with dark contouring, and intensely pigmented and shimmered shadows, elongated eyes lined with inky black kohl pencil and brilliant, heavily glossed and often obviously lined and defined mouths were the order of the day. The look was further brought into the limelight by the hottest fashion photographers and designers of the day. Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin and Chris Von Wangenheim shot layouts and ad campaigns for the houses of Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior and Charles Jourdan with models wearing the look often accessorized with either sleek pulled back or enormous masses of crimped hair. This season’s Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs ad campaigns are excellent examples of the look mildly updated for 2011. The 80s, 90s and the first decade of the 21st century have been mostly filled with looks referenced from the past. What will the next decade bring? Asymmetry, the absence of eyebrows, unusual colour placement such as aqua blue lips and fuchsia lined eyes? Modern cosmetic technologies along with pop culture and fashion icons like Lady Gaga pushing the boundaries of what is acceptable gives hope that maybe something new and exciting will happen in the world of beauty in the next ten years. Only time will tell.


Cristiano Cora

By Angela Jelicic

One of the most innovative personalities in the hair business today, Hairstylist and Educator Cristiano Cora, is on his way to share his expertise with Canadian stylists. Cora has developed a technique that combines art and technology. “Hair is one of the most personal forms of self expression and an intrinsic part of our individuality and identity. Like the sculptor seeking the form and beauty in the raw rock, it is my challenge to work with my clients to help them find that identity and achieve the image that they desire,” says Cora. Cora believes in user centered design. Modern, geometric yet organic shapes that are easy to manage, low maintenance and versatile. The “Cristiano Cora” look is innovative, progressive and sophisticated—touted proudly as Luxury Hair Technology. At his studio in New York, Cristiano Cora Studio, he offers monthly workshops for stylists that combine hands-on training with access to the latest, cutting edge techniques, equipment and products with a design aesthetic that realizes a harmony of art and technology. “We strive to create new silhouettes and styles that push forward the art of the hair designer,” illustrates Cora (www.cristianocora.com). The first Cristiano Cora Studio in New York is the realization of a dream that began 30 years ago in Venice, Italy where, as a child, Cora learned from and was inspired by his mother, a talented hair stylist. In the 1980s, Cora trained and worked at Vidal Sassoon where he stayed for 20 years, first in London, then Los Angeles and finally New York as creative director of the company. With this experience, along with his passion for his craft and the desire to push forward the art of hair cutting, Cora has progressed to become an artist with a unique vision for hair design and care. Cora has chosen to use the Davines product line exclusively in his salon. Davines, is an Italian hair care company from Parma devoting itself to a sophisticated balance of beauty and eco-sustainability (www.davines.com). Sharing his passion for quality, simplicity and harmony in the art of hair, Cora offers stylists an amazing opportunity to discover and practice new skills using an exclusive product line that is pure and consumer friendly. Cristiano instructed a successful series at Western Canada Fashion Week, Rhonda Hachey Alberta Sales Manager Strogryn Sales/Davines “what makes Cristiano such a brilliant teacher is his passion for the industry, the stylist and hair, His motto is “I love hair “ and we love him!


Tony Ricci, 2010 North American Hair Stylist of the Year

By Maria Basconsela

Just recently crowned 2010 North American Hairstylist of the Year, Tony Ricci was born in Italy and raised in Edmonton. A graduate of Marvel College, he is the owner and founder of the highly successful Ricci Hair Company and has been working as a stylist for 18 years with training from Sassoon’s Academy in London, England and Los Angeles. PHABRIK Magazine's Executive and Creative Director Sandra Sing Fernandes spoke with Tony right after his win. “I’m so impressed by Tony’s ability to create a total look and get a cover shot. I was so excited to interview him to understand his creative process being an artist myself.” Tony Ricci’s mantra is “it’s never good enough”. He feels this helps with originality and keeps an artist on top of things internationally. “On the last day of my collection when I won, I was already thinking about my next collection.” Tony is continually working towards excellence and is already working towards North American Hairstylist of the Year again for next season. His winning collection was themed “Cyber Vixens”. Tony and his team have won many awards prior to this including the Mirror Awards Canadian Hairdresser of the year twice, and the Contessa Alberta Hairstylist of the year, “I was always wondering if I was good enough to place as I had won the Canadian competition twice. I’ve always wanted to do it.” For the last few years he has been focusing on inspirations from designers Yoshi Yamamoto, the late Alexander McQueen, and architecture. The North American Hair Stylist of the Year competition starts with 1200 competitors and works down to five. Then one winner is chosen. “I photographed the collection in Montreal and felt in order to win, all five photographs submitted had to be cover shots.” Tony finished shooting in Montreal and had come back to Edmonton but felt he only actually had three cover shots. So he decided to go back to Montreal and continued shooting until he had five completed cover shots. “I really loved shooting in Montreal as I was isolated from everyday business and could focus entirely on creativity for 3 days.” Tony Ricci has developed a strong team of fifteen staff who are committed to his pursuit of excellence and creating cutting edge looks. “I have an amazing team and without them none of this would be possible.” “In daily life as a hairdresser, I’m a craftsperson and create for my clients. I want my clients to walk out with something that works for them and that is personal to them, but for myself, as an artist, I’m looking for overall image and the wow factor – all the elements coming together – models, photographers, hair, makeup, etc.” Congratulations to Tony Ricci on winning North American Hairdresser of the Year.


©2013 PHABRIK Magazine