PHABRIK Magazine

Beauty

Beauty, Hair + Health

Big Bold Beauty

- Photography by Corrie Side - Makeup, styling + art direction by James Kershaw - Model Lauren B. at PHABRIK model + artist management Tropical corals, ravishing reds, luscious berries, popping pinks and over-the-top oranges embellish the season's most fashion forward lips and bring a healthy flush to cheeks. Textures range from matte to glossy, coverage from sheer to opaque. Giorgio Armani's Flash Lacquer Crystal Shine Gloss in Maharajah or Pink Blush is a great example of a sheer bright. Elizabeth Arden's Beautiful Colour Moisturizing Lipsticks are now available in eight new shades with a velvety matte finish. Clarins' new Instant Light Lip Balm Perfectors offer sheer glossy colour with the benefit of mango and shea butters to nourish and protect. Sure to become a cult fave item is the beauty house's new Instant Light Lip Comfort Oil, a treatment that is rich in luxurious oils such as hazelnut (an ingredient in all Clarins' face and body treatment oils), as well as mirabelle plum and organic jojoba. Many beauty aficionados are now playing with the concept of contour and highlight. Sculpting a cheekbone has never been easier. Clinique has stepped up this Spring offering not only the Scupltionary Cheek Contouring Palette in four colour coordinated compacts, but also two new shades of their wildly successful line of Chubby Sticks. Hefty Highlight and Curvy Contour were designed specifically to achieve the desired effect. Lise Watier's Expression Blush trio can be used to add structure to the face; the brown hue in the hollow of the cheekbone, rose for a healthy glow and orange on the temples to illuminate. This spring, eyes are enhanced with earthy neutrals in a variety of finishes, or awash in a range of verdant greens. Yves Saint Laurent's new Couture Variation 10-colour Eye Palette 1 Nu features shimmering, satin and matte finish shadows in a variety of depths and intensities. Their new Couture Eye Primer will make sure the shadows stay fresh and crease-free all day. Jane Iredale's Getaway Eye Shadow Kit, inspired by a weekend in the country, offers a generously-sized highlighter with four easy-wear neutrals in both shimmer and satin finishes. Giorgio Armani offers Eye Tint Fluid Eye Colour Film in Cold Copper or Gold Ashes for those seeking a neutral eye makeup effect. They are also releasing the Eye Tint in Emeraude, which exemplifies this season's trend for green hues eye makeup products. Clarins Garden Escape offers two shades of spring green with soft pinks: a white and a taupe. The eyes can be further enhanced with their Intense Green Crayon kohl. Lise Watier's Palette Expression combines green tinged blues with a shimmering bronze and soft citrusy pastels. A season to think big!


Skin Savers

- Photography + Digital Art by C Side Photography - Article + Art Direction by James Kershaw A good skin care regimen may be your avenue to the fountain of youth. Meet some of this season’s newest and best from the industry’s beauty wizards. Fall 2014 is an exceptional season for new, innovative beauty products. A number of new specifically targeted serums and creams are being introduced . Many of these new items provide a range of benefits from lifting and firming (Lise Watier’s 24HRS Lift + Firm 3D) to dark spot correction (Clarins’ Super Restorative Night Cream, Clinique Smart Custom Repair, and Philosophy’s No Reason to Hide). Clarins’ Shaping Facial Lift Total V Contouring Serum helps to redefine the ideal 3V contour: a slimmer face, refined cheeks and a lifted, firmer jawline—this product is especially popular with Asian women but may be used by any and all ethnicities. Elizabeth Arden’s new Flawless Future products use ceramide technology along with a protective protein complex and skin brighteners to intercept the first signs of aging. Crème Ancienne from Fresh looks back to the first cold cream known to man for this 21st century formula. Soft Cream provides twenty-four hour moisture in a rich, yet weightless formula ideal for all skin types. Each jar of cream contains such fragile ingredients that each must poured in a specific sequence at a determined temperature by hand. The cream launches exclusively at Sephora in October. Of course, all of these products will work their best on a thoroughly cleansed skin. Clinique’s new Sonic System purifying cleansing brush removes impurities for clear healthy looking skin, and is more effective than hand washing, making the skin is better prepared to receive treatment.


Arch Supports

- Photography + Digital Art by C Side Photography - Article, Makeup + Art Direction by James Kershaw - Model Lauren B. at PHABRIK artist + model management Brows are considered by many to be one of the face’s most important features. They can certainly make or break a “look”. Achieving the desired shape, colour and width of the brow has never been easier. Cosmetic houses have stepped up with new products from pencils to powders, incorporating the necessary tools/applicators for grooming.


Scents to Fall For | A Few for the Guys

- Photographs + Digital Art by C Side Photography - Articles + Art Direction by James Kershaw Scents to Fall For Every season, fragrance houses around the globe launch new scents or new versions of established ones to entice the consumer. This year is no different, here are some of this season’s best. The house of Marc Jacobs launches yet another version of the best-selling Daisy fragrance, Marc Jacobs Daisy Dream. The new fruity floral is presented in a silver capped daisy embellished clear glass flacon that reveals the scents sky blue hue. Calvin Klein, famous, or maybe infamous, for provocative ad campaigns, has an innovative approach to fragrance development for his various scents. This season, he debuts Reveal, a solar oriental scent. For the first time ever in a fragrance, it opens with a raw salt signature which is said to ‘’capture traces of the erotic scent of skin’’—very appropriate as the sexy print campaign features supermodel Doutzen Kroes along with British actor Charlie Hunnam. Prada, also a house known for innovation in fashion and fragrance, debuts Prada Candy Florale. This is the third scent in the Candy series, scents all created by perfumer Daniela Andrier. The fragrance is described by the house as an exciting floral scent with a romantic, powdery composition, full of life and sensuality inspired by an imaginary flower that smells like candy, or a bouquet of flowers on a countertop in an Italian ice cream parlour. The world renowned jewelry house, Boucheron, celebrates its first anniversary of the launch of its highly successful woody, floral Place Vendome Eau de Parfum with a limited edition version. The new version was created by introducing new notes such as Italian Mandarin and Bulgarian Rose to the original composition. The fragrance is presented in a heavy, black cabochon topped, textured metallic gold bottle inspired by the cobblestones of Place Vendome in Paris. Designer Vera Wang, known mainly for her iconic bridal gowns and seasonal fashion collections, launches a new scent, Forever Vera. Created by perfumer Honorine Blanc, the floral, woody musk scent is presented in a delicately hammered glass bottle with an elegant rope detail inspired by the designer’s Wedgewood collection. Another scent created by Honorine Blanc, this time for Juicy Couture, is the newest version of Viva La Juicy, which launched in 2008. The new scent is called Gold Couture Eau de Parfum and is described as a glamorous and decadent version of the original. Gold Couture is housed in a reflective gold bottle with a clear stopper adorned with a bow of point d’esprit lace. The house of Paco Rabanne adds to their selection of fragrance this fall with the introduction of Lady Million Eau My Gold! Created by Anne Flipo, the new Eau de Toilette is housed in a gold capped elongated glass version of the original bottle. Olivier Polge was asked to create a fragrance for the house of Repetto, opening a new chapter in its history. The house, an icon of French heritage, was founded by Rose Repetto in 1947. Her first client was her son, dancer and choreographer Roland Petit. Since then, the house has provided ballet shoes to such luminaries as Rudolph Nureyev and Mikhail Baryshnikov. The elegant bottle that houses the scent bears an identical ribbon to the one used on the famous Carlotta ballerina; it is wrapped, knotted at the neck, sealed with the brand’s iconic lower case “r”, and weighted with a drop pendant. The fashion house Burberry, known for its instantly recognizable plaid and the invention of the modern trench coat, introduces what it describes as the most significant fragrance launch for women to date. The scent, created by Christopher Bailey, Burberry’s Chief Creative and Chief Executive Officer, in collaboration with Francis Kurkdjian is said to capture the fragrance of a London garden after the rain. My Burberry takes its name from the rather affectionate way people refer to their Burberry trench. Its glass bottle and overall design reflect the details of the iconic garment. The horn finish cap echoes the distinctive buttons, while the hand tied knot of English woven gabardine honours the fabric invented by Thomas Burberry more than a century ago. A Few for the Guys Thierry Mugler is one of the fashion world’s most dynamic individuals and the fragrances that bear his name certainly reflect this. Mugler was one of the first to incorporate gourmand elements in his scents. The original A*Men fragrance which debuted in 1996 contrasted notes of coffee and vanilla with patchouli. In the years since, the house has launched new limited edition variations of the original scent. In 2009, the house debuted A*Men Pure Malt. It was the first to combine the art of a haute perfumery with that of a master distiller. Inspired by whiskey production methods, Mugler allows the fragrance to develop for six weeks inside “toasted” oak casks. This original, innovative aging process in the world of fragrance is now patented by the brand. This fall, the scent becomes a permanent part of the collection. A*Men Pure Wood is the limited edition version for 2014. The fragrance is overdosed with notes of cedar and cypress that meld with into the original A*Men fragrance notes. All Thierry Mugler fragrances were created by master perfumer Jacques Huclier for Givaudan. Nautica is a fashion company started by David Chu in 1984, the company’s first scent debuted in 1992. This fall the firm launches Nautica Life, which is an aromatic aquatic scent. All of the scents exude a nautical feel in scent and presentation. Nautica Life’s clear glass cylinder allows the watery blue of the scent to show and also allows the novel detail of having what appears to be boat rope camouflaging the spray. Invictus, which in Latin means invincible, is the name for Paco Rabanne’s newest scent in their fragrance range. The trophy shaped bottle houses the scent which opens with a fresh marine accord, a complete opposite of their last offering, 1 Million Intense which is a spicy, woody, oriental scent.


Whiskers a go go

- Photographs + Digital Art by C Side Photography - Article + Grooming by James Kershaw - Models Mark W. and Randy C. at PHABRIK artist + model management Facial hair trends tend to come and go in cycles much like fashion trends, just at a slower pace. Throughout the 19th century, most males sported some form of facial hair, be it sideburns, goatees, moustaches or beards. In the last century, decades seemed to each have their own facial hair trend. Pencil thin moustaches in the twenties and the return of Mutton chop side burns à la Elvis in the fifties combined with goatees in the sixties and full, bushy porn star ’staches in the seventies. The eighties, for the most part, was generally a clean shaven decade, but as we entered the nineties, facial hair again resurfaced as hip urban dwellers began sporting ‘soul patches’ and goatees. As the 21st century dawned, hipsters in large cities such as New York began to grow full beards and moustaches, some even reverting back to the waxed handle bar ’stache of yore. The trend is now global and young males everywhere are embracing the whiskered face. Some of the planet’s top menswear fashion houses are showing their newest looks on the catwalk and in print on full bearded and mustachioed models. Arguably, beards and other facial hair styles tend to make those able to grow them appear more masculine and powerful. Whether that is true or not, keeping the growth clean, conditioned and groomed is of utmost importance—and of course there is a wide array of products available to do just that. Here are some of the best the industry has to offer.


A Beautiful Season

- Photographs + Digital Art by C Side Photography - Article, Makeup + Art Direction by James Kershaw - Model Lauren B. at PHABRIK artist + model management Sumptuous colours and iridescent or velvety textures characterize this season’s eye makeup offerings. Clarins’ new Ombre Matte cream to powder shadows come in a range of timeless rich, neutral shades, just like their Skin Tones mineral eyeshadow quartet. Lise Watier’s limited edition Quatour Feline, leopard print embossed shadows, impart a soft iridescence, as does her waterproof, long wear 24HRS Glam eye shadow pencils. Jane Iredale’s Celebrate eye shadow trio offers matte and soft shimmer shadows to be accented with her subtly shimmered “Jelly Jar” gel eyeliners in purple or green. Elizabeth Arden debuts their new line of soft metallic embellished Precision Glide Eyeliner pencils. A radiant complexion is achieved with products such as Clarins’ new True Radiance Perfect Skin foundation and new Tawny Pink Blush Prodige. Lips may be painted in a variety of textures to suit all tastes, from the gloss finishes of Jane Iredale’s  Puregloss or Fresh’s Sugar Shine Lip Treatments, to the rich satin finish of Clarins’ age defying Rouge Éclat Lipstick, to the matte finishes of Lise Watier’s Feline Velvet Lip Lacquer or Cliniques’ new Long Last Soft Matte Lipstick range. All these beauty products make Fall/Winter a truly beautiful season.


Vincent Moutault

- Stylist: Vincent Moutault - Hair Assistants: ​Chantal Girard, Sara Murphy, Jami Cuglietta, Julian Scott, Ray Nann​inga​ and Emma Spense - Photography: Ernest of Studio E Photography - Clothing provided by: LUXX ready to wear - Makeup: James Kershaw - Models: Brittany W., Lauren B., Amanda, Grace, PHABRIK artist + model management   Finding the courage to follow a passion can be difficult when you lack the support of the people around you, but Vincent Moutault is an incredible example of the magic that can happen when everything falls into place. Growing up, he was drawn to the artistry of hair and knew that he wanted to pursue a career in hair styling. His family, however, wanted him to be an engineer and he struggled with not being able to tell his father that he wanted to do hair, a career that his family didn’t consider acceptable. Knowing that he would eventually have to make a decision about what he wanted to do about his future, he began competing in triathlons, focusing on building his mind, body, and spirit. Sadly, it wasn’t as simple as that—a sudden accident left him in a coma for an extended period of time. Thankfully, he made a full recovery. After waking up from the coma, he knew he had to pursue his passion for hair. Moutault fell in love with the beauty and expressiveness of hair, its ability to speak about people, as well as the way the right cut could change someone’s life. Reflecting on this, he built his salon in Dijon, France, named La Loge 220. The salon has a unique feature: the absence of mirrors. Rather than relying on feedback during the cutting process, he spends time building a relationship with each client, earning their trust and cutting their hair freely, showing them only the finished look. This unconventional approach was very successful, and the number of confident and empowered clients grew, to a point where people began to travel to see him. In 2007, he was introduced to Davines, a company that reflected his values: a love of artistry and creativity, an emphasis on constant learning and growth, and a passion for natural beauty. A constant learner, Moutault became an educator for Davines, first in France and then internationally. His genuine enthusiasm for sharing knowledge shines through as he is fun, outgoing, caring, and truly approachable. Moutault is constantly working on his English in order to better communicate his ideas with non-francophone students, and his eagerness to share and learn in a fun environment makes him an unforgettable teacher. His artistry is evident as he moves freely and organically to create beautiful hairstyles, something the fashion industry has recognized this as well. His work has been featured internationally in fashion and hair editorials, including Doleres Magazine, Art Actuel, Estetica, and most recently, Bambi Magazine. With an incredible curriculum vitae, Moutault has combined his incredible talent with a passion for constant growth. He likens this to running a marathon, focusing on the journey and process instead of the end goal. Moutault’s attitude of constantly working hard and pushing further to reach his goals, one mountain at a time, has brought him to where he is today. By Danielle Fuechtmann


Read My Lips | Sweet Cheeks | Easy on the Eyes

- Photography + Digital Art by C Side Photography - Article, Makeup + Art Direction by James Kershaw - Models Gaydra R., Rachel, Grace, Lauren at PHABRIK artist + model management Read My Lips What’s on everyone’s lips this Spring? Colour! Everything from soft pastels to vivid brights in matte, cream or glossy finishes. No bland beiges this season! Clarins Paris proposes a trio of sheer vivid brights in their Joli Rouge Brilliant line, and a pair of new shades, a bright coral and a new crystal clear (not shown), from the house’s Gloss Prodige line presented in the Opalescence Spring makeup collection. Jane Iredale adds two new shades to her very successful line of Lip Fixation lip stains, playfully named after moods or emotions; this spring, look for a vivid coral named Craze and a mauve plum named Compulsion. Each colour is paired with a delicately shimmered companion gloss. Lise Watier also adds to her lip stain collection with the Duo Glam Rouge Infini, her long wear stain mated with a matching lipstick for a chic sophisticated cream finish. Elizabeth Arden’s new range of Beautiful Colour lipsticks launched in Fall 2013, with two very on trend brights: their Neo Classic Coral and Ultraviolet, both ideal for this season. Sweet Cheeks One of the easiest ways to brighten your look is with a pop of colour on the cheeks. Clinique’s new Cheek Pops, the Gerber daisy embossed blush shown here in three of the four shades available has an innovative formula that begins as a liquid that is then transformed though a slow baking process into a soft powder that imparts long-wearing, silky smooth, sheer vibrant colour. PurMinerals launches two new ways to blush this season: cream and powder formulas, both of which are paraben free and have no fillers or chemical dyes. The cream formula is available in two shades, while the powder is available in four. Clarins Paris launches a new version of their much loved Multi-Blush. Clarins describes their newest cheek enhancer (which may also be used on the lips) as a sensorial cream blush that merges with the skin. This new product, available in four bright yet very natural looking shades, is enriched with plant extracts, mimosa, rose water and jojoba to help maintain optimal hydration. The subtly shimmered Havana Bronzing Powder by Lise Watier delivers that much desired sun kissed glow; this item is also available in a matte finish. Jane Iredale, one of the pioneers in the mineral makeup industry, offers a new shade of the popular In Touch Highlighter, the new Comfort shade. It is a gold shimmered pink and is a perfect companion product to her In Touch cream blush sticks. Easy on the Eyes Some of the planet’s most forward fashion houses, such as Dior, Chanel, Prada and Lanvin, as well as Versace, in their spring ad campaigns with Lady GaGa, are showing models wearing the lightest, freshest eye makeup seen in years. Soft pastels or shimmering metallics are swept across lids, often alone or subtly embellished with a flick of liner and mascara. Cosmetic houses this season seem to have an “easy on the eyes’’ attitude. Lise Watier’s Imagine eye shadow quad is a mix of cool and warm shades with a soft pearlized finish inspired by the sky. Clarins’ Vibrant Light Mineral Palette blends cool lilac and violet with soft grey and a shimmering silver highlighter, while Jane Iredale’s new aptly named Golden Girl trio is a blend of soft warm metallics that may be accentuated with her new gel liner in brown.


©2013 PHABRIK Magazine