PHABRIK Magazine

2010 Runway Report

By Jacqueline Parrish

March 2010

The 2010 RTW Runway Trends and Highlights
Emerging from the multifarious mix of designers and their S/S ’10 RTW collections, were several unmistakable patterns. Collectively ditching the heavily tailored, overly-stiff garments of seasons past and erring on the side of femininity, designers focused on a softer silhouette. While adhering to the old “less is more” adage, celebrated design houses created wardrobe mainstays with minutely detailed, simple, stylish, garments. Making a statement about the future of humanity, Alexander McQueen presented an innovative runway show and collection that stole the spotlight. A particular shoe design pushed the artistic envelope, leaving a worldwide audience split between awe and ugh.

Minimalist a la Mode
At Givenchy, Celine and Yves Saint Laurent, the designers gave an expertly executed visual exposé centered on minimalism; a limited color palette combined with a smattering of small design details made for classic garments that will stand the test of time in ones wardrobe. Favoring simple blacks, whites and beiges, the designs were given an added element of interest through the various pairings of differently textured and sheened fabrics of the same color. At Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci paired together contrasting combinations of inky blacks and stark whites; visually striking looks that come off as effortlessly chic.

Beautiful Bows
In accordance with this season’s widespread trend of all that is girly, there was a veritable explosion of bows of every size spilling onto the runways. Moschino, Valentino, Andrew Gn and Marc by Marc Jacobs are just a few of the numerous designers that incorporated the ultra-feminine detailing onto everything from garments to headpieces. From the small and demure to the gigantic and overwhelming, there was scarcely a prêt-a-port show for S/S ‘10 that did not feature the coquettish symbol of femininity.

Grecian Goddess
Yards of draped, sheer and lightweight, fabrics made for a softer, flirtier silhouette on the runways this spring. Stand out collections from last fall such as Balenciaga’s beautifully draped drop-waist skirts- served as inspiration for design houses that included Lanvin, Dries Van Noten and Elie Saab. Swathed in layers of flowing silk, satin and chiffon, the models floated down the runways in Romanesque gowns, skirts and tops; a much different look from the predominantly architectural designs of last season.

Futuristic-Fashion Nirvana
One standout collection, deserving of a paragraph all to itself, was the highly imaginative, futuristic, Atlantis-inspired showing from Alexander McQueen. Featuring an electrifying stage show that included digitally printed, reptilian-patterned dresses, video of a naked Raquel Zimmerman covered in writhing snakes, the debut of Lady Gaga’s new single, and live online-streaming; it made for an unforgettable experience.

Claw Couture
It would be impossible to write about McQueen’s S/S ’10 line without touching on one of the most talked about elements of his collection; the deformed, nine inch platforms that gave the models the entertaining appearance of having legs that ended in enormous crab-claws. After the initial shock of watching something so avant-garde traipse down the runway, it is easy for one to appreciate the brilliant concept behind the cunningly crafted, visually captivating footwear. While personally itching to get my hands on a pair, I’m certain that the less artfully-inclined will find these monstrous shoes to be much the opposite of desirable.


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